The Longest Way Home Travel Blog » Philippines

How much does a person from the Philippines earn?

The Longest Way Home — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:05:58 +0000

Money to some simply means, "I will eat tonight"

How much money does a person from the Philippines earn or make a day?

From the least paid all the way to the president, I took to the streets to try and find out. The results, while holding no scientific nor Wall Street Journal like quality, are interesting nonetheless.

I say per day, as when I ask people on a lower income, this is what they quote me, exactly:

“I make ___ , sir.”

A middle income person is more reluctant, but will quote by the month using the term “around“.

Upper income people usually just smile. But will happily tell you what everyone else makes.

Cost of living in The Philippines (average, local):

Here’s a rough idea of what local things cost so you can see what a wage quote lower down must be spent on:

Jeepney ride – 10 pesos (medium distance transport)
Cost of fuel per liter – p45 +

Is it a pregnant lady? Or a case of wealthy male Pinoy belly: It's actually scary to see so many rich Filipinos who are grossly overweight

Tricycad – city transport - p6 +
Small bottle of water – p15-20
Average local meal with meat – p60

60 pesos (p60) = USD$1.31 approx

The reality of wealth distribution in the Philippines:

A village girl or boy brought to a town to work as a house keeper can be paid as little as 0 to 50 pesos per day. They are given accommodation and meals (basic, as in rice and the floor).

Low income earnings:

The average security person man or woman earns p200 per day

The average guest house / hotel cleaner earns 200 pesos per day

A receptionist (starter) earns: p200 – 300 per day

Middle income earnings:

Filipino's are obsessed with big cars, all the wealthy own one; shame they haven't been reading the rest of the worlds industry reports - or maybe they have been ...

A call center employees earns p10,000 – 18,000 per month

An office administrator earns p10,000 – 20,000 per month

A basic teacher earns p15,000 – 18,000 per month

Note: there are hidden extras in many middle income salaries. Many will also be given a free sack of rice every month, a health care plan and transport. Depending on the job and circumstances.

Upper income:

A doctor earns between p18,000 – 35,000 pesos per month

An airline pilot earns 80- 100,000 pesos per month

Government officials earnings in The Philippines:

Now this was hard to find answers on, I wonder why?

The president earns 40,000 -60,000 pesos per month (everyone laughs when this is mentioned)

A governor earns … ???

The president’s “official” salary was easy to find out. As for a Governor, Mayor or other government officials no one seems to know.

If you happen to know, then please leave a comment (references would be great).

Note: I can’t help but add in here about the massive fringe benefits politicians get in The Philippines. Not forgetting the wealth of political dynasties, shady business partnerships and corruption the countries politicians have been know for. They are amongst the richest here, one way or another. See further below for an example of a $20,000 steakhouse dinner

Expats & overseas workers:

Diplomats earn the same as their civil service salaries back home, plus hardship bonuses (differs depending on origin country). Least to say, they are far from suffering judging by the luxury apartments/ buildings, most live in.

Non owning manager of a corporate overseas business: $USD 80,000 + per year depending on business. (plus other benefits)

Unqualified expat looking for a job – same as a local, unless you get lucky.

A note on small expat businesses in the Philippines: in order to run a registered business in the Philippines you need to be a national. Foreigners generally (that I am aware of) have two options.

Marry a local: in which case the local will own the majority share of the company
Form a company whereby the BOD has at least 5 Pinoy members

I’ve seen and heard of many a bad story due to the above.

Street girl eating someones leftovers on a plate - is her only hope to escape overseas by any means? Or could she really run for office & eat a little better ...

Equality & fairness in the Philippine salary:

The above is not an official list of salaries by some government body. These are quotes from people either in that job, related to it, from the street or from a news agency and treated as a given average.

What struck me was the salary scale of a call center employee vs a teacher or even a doctor. Call centers are booming in The Philippines, and many graduates would rather work in a call center, rather than in their chosen profession.

Apart that is from those looking to leave the country, via their profession.

Filipinos working overseas:

In my time here I’ve met a staggering amount of Filipinos looking to work overseas. This is actually an industry itself. And no, I am not talking about the return of wealth from overseas workers.

I am talking about the amount of businesses within the Philippines dedicated to getting people jobs overseas. And, to a lesser scale, simply taking the money with idle promises.

Unemployment vs overseas working:

Today’s figures state there about 12 million overseas Filipino workers. The population is around 95 million. That’s roughly about 10% of the population that work overseas.

The unemployment rate is around 8% give or take. How this is actually calculated is beyond me as there’s very to back this up. Living off the land out of necessity and eating nothing but plain rice is considered employed.

Fringe benefits & justice:

Rather than the usual developing country heartache of focusing on people eating nothing but plain rice, children falling asleep due to hunger, or no medical care. I’d like this to highlight the flip side of things.

Whereby some people live very well.

Last year as the Philippines was struggling to cope with the world food crises former President Arroyo spent $15,000 and then another $20,000 on two meals for 60 colleagues whilst visiting the U.S.A. One of which was at a steakhouse where the bill was allegedly footed by a nephew of former president Marcos. The story was reported in many places. Here’s a brief ABS-CBN report.

The follow ups to this were met with non-statements, allegations, rebuttals and the usual “the head of state desires good treatment because …”

Conclusion:

This should give readers a rough insight into how mixed, cumbersome, irrational, fraudulent and bizarre salaries are in The Philippines.

From hand to mouth non earners, to teachers earning less than call center staff to Presidents and their entourages eating $20,000 dinners.

It’s a bizarre scale, and I somehow I don’t think The Philippines is alone in the world in this regard.

And, it would be interesting to see if anyone else can add to this, or disagree with my findings, either in the Philippines, or globally.

I am sure wealth distribution anomalies happen elsewhere too.

Coming Soon:

Documenting my life 101

Plus, a special on bribery within the travel photography community … aka travel photography ethics

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How much does a person from the Philippines earn?

Food in The Philippines: Ube (strange, purple, popular!)

The Longest Way Home — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 23:10:59 +0000

Ube in The Philippines

Purple Ube Ice Cream! (click to enlarge)

There are many multicolored food stuff’s in The Philippines. In fact, the nation seems to have no regard for the dangers of artificial colorings and additives whatsoever.

However, there is one natural color that keeps popping up everywhere. Including in food. And, that’s the color purple. Most of this comes from Ube.

What is Ube?

Ube is actually a purple yam, or tuber which has streaks of violet / purple running through it.

This natural food is often cooked, smashed and made into many into many different products. Ice cream, cakes, breads, pies can all be Ube flavored. Which in turn, makes them all a bright purple!

The ube yam itself is large, and looks a lot like any yam. But on close inspection you will see some purple hinting on the outside. Cut it open and it’s got more streaks of purple.

What does Ube taste like?

When cooked, it’s no different to any other yam in taste.

When made into an ice cream, it comes out bright purple and tasting … well … like a yam too!

A strange taste that takes a while to comprehend. It’s not overly sweet, and it’s not often you’ll come across yam or potato flavored ice cream.

But, it’s good!

I’ve tasted various Ube flavored food stuffs. None, come close to Ube ice cream. It’s unique to say the least.

Check out this 5 photograph selection of Ube!

(after play, click lower right toolbar above for full screen version – Email/RSS subscribers please go to the live travel blog post to see the video)

Ice cream in the Philippines

And, it’s well needed. Ice cream in The Philippines is a terrible disappointment considering the hot climate. Most of the ice cream comes from generic brands like Nestle, and are packed with sugar and artificial everything.

I don’t know if Ube ice cream also has a lot of colorant in it. I hope not. I know the Nestle one does. But for local versions I am hoping it’s all Ube, but have my doubts and think they add purple to it.

On the streets you can often find local homemade ice cream. Usually frozen ice (not the same), with Durian and chocolate flavors being the most popular. Again, not so good as to be called real ice cream.

What is the best ice cream in the Philippines?

The one saving grace for ice cream in the Philippines is Ube. I’ve seen the locally made version and the generic Nestle version. The local one wins. It’s got a real natural taste to it, and is thick and creamy.

So if you ever find yourself in the Philippines, and see a purple container of ice cream, give it a go! It’ll be different, but strangely good!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Food in the Philippines

The bad & the good expats in the Philippines

The Longest Way Home — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 22:22:30 +0000

Sometimes people have a different idea what it's like to live overseas (click to enlarge)

I’ve both traveled and tried living in the Philippines. Throughout my journals you can see that I have had both a very positive experience, and what I can only call life lessons for this journey.

The Filipino people themselves are very easy going, and it’s hard not to like them.

On the otherhand, I’ve yet to actually say very many nice words about any foreigner I’ve met here.

Why are foreigners not likable in The Philippines?

There are many types of foreigner in the Philippines: Package holiday makers away for a week or two, couples on honeymoon, the odd wandering backpacker, an occasional rich movie star, and expats making new lives for themselves.

And, the other kind of foreigner…

The sex tourist foreigner. Mainly North American, and North European. There is however a growing number of Mid Eastern, and African rich types making their way over here too. And yes, they are all male.

I must admit I haven’t come across many foreigners I actually liked in the Philippines during my time here. From drunk foreign men looking for local girls (and the occasional boy). To the rich elite that seem displeased that you also are traveling in the same place as they.

A few exceptions, there are some nice expats in The Philippines:

But under all that, there seems to be a thriving community of genuinely nice expats who are living in the Philippines. Some keep a low profile, while others are a part of huge network.

The people running Nut’s Huts in Bohol are an example of nice foreigner expats. A very friendly couple that were down to earth and easy to talk with.

Mindanao Bob, a great expat living in the Philippines

But, by far the most impressive expat I’ve met is Bob (aka Mindanao Bob) from Davao. I first came across Bob’s name from one of the many websites he runs call Live In The Philippines. I found it when I was searching for some visa information about the Philippines.

Bob’s run’s some great sites:

I left a comment on his website, and he posted back straight away. A few months later, I was looking for more information on the Philippines and again Bob’s website appeared. This time it made it’s way into my bookmarks and I kept on reading.

Then, as I was making my first journey to Davao I took an even closer look at Bob’s site and learned a lot from it. Including a lot about Bob. He has a little section on it about meeting up with him for a coffee. So I sent him an email. He replied and the following week we met up.

Breaking the norm!

I really didn’t know what to expect before meeting Bob. Would he be one of those expats with a younger girlfriend and a constant beer in hand or …

“From website persona to the man himself I am really happy to say Bob is a great guy.”

Married with a son and daughter, Bob’s been living in the Philippines for the over 10 years. He had something better than a beer waiting for me too. He had a freshly brewed coffee from his large collection of coffee beans from around the world.

I was already a bit late in arriving to his beautiful home. And, was worried about missing my bus. But as we sat down and began getting acquainted the time just flew by as did my bus journey. But it was well worth it.

Meet a man who knows more than most expats:

Bob was a wealth of information about the Philippines, and in particular Mindanao. Hence his nickname Mindanao Bob! In fact as I sat there and discussed about meeting other expats in the Philippines, travel, and other things Pinoy I wished that I had met up with Bob a lot sooner.

Bob makes his living through an incredible and well put together colleciton of websites all about the Philippines. He even owns www.mindanao.com. If there was anyone more dedicated to giving the world a more positive and realisic perspective on the Philippines its Mindanao Bob! He also makes a great cup of coffee!

Coming soon:

The beginning of the End … how much does a Filipino actually earn …

Food from the Philippines: the night workers street food (Special Edition)

The Longest Way Home — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 22:11:49 +0000

The day workers night time street food

Super fresh near glow in the dark marinated meat on the barbecue (click to enlarge)

Local street food stalls are certainly good to try out when traveling. There are usually two types:

1) The one locals regularly go to

2) The one setup for the tourist trade. This one often brings in locals looking for a night out too.

But, there is a hidden third option that few people know about. And, it’s one that I usually try to seek out in most big cities around the world.

The local workers street food stall:

Worker buying food at a night market in The Philippines

Find a dock area, a warehouse district, or a city street near store houses and you are sure to find a workers food market. Some only come out at night, some are 24 hours a day.

The workers night street food stalls I visited in The Philippines usually only appear at around 5.30pm. It’s dark at 6.20pm. A whole road is quite often closed off as makeshift tents and rooftop canopies made from plastic sheets are erected in record time.

Next come the charcoal BBQ street food stands. Long thin metal guttering is the norm here. Filled with charcoal they are placed a little away from the main food area.

Sights and smells of the workers street food barbecue:

As night falls the charcoals take on a red glow. Fresh chicken, pork and fish hiss as they are pre cooked over the hot grills. Wafts of flavorsome smoke rise up as the sounds of the working day conclude. Shutters rattle down. Plastic hits cardboard box. And, relaxing sounds of laughter start to emerge.

A days hard work is over. The local workers still have a long journey home, but first they must eat. For eating here is faster, and cheaper than waiting to go home. Though a few do opt for the take away option.

But this is also a good time to discuss the day. How much was made? Who sold what? And, of course, politics.

The street food:

It’s plain and simple, but knocks a local food stall into the gutter for value and sheer taste. Here it’s not so much about being fancy, nor about being artistic in culinary display. It’s about real food that tastes good and is value for money.

Ever been to a local food stall and thought the servings were a bit on the small side? Not here. The workers street food stall serves big, and at nearly half the price.

Small bundles of rice wrapped in coconut leaves

At a local street food stall I would pay 120 pesos for a pork steak that, to be honest, has a lot of fat. Here, I paid 45 pesos ($0.90) for pure meat.

A chicken fillet here, oozes with flavor compared to its drier local street food counterpart. It’s the best chicken I’ve had in the Philippines.

The real people eat here:

Now for the best part. In my experience the middle to upper class of Filipino will not eat here. In fact I’ve had many tell me these places have terrible food, and it’s not a good place to go. Many more will add that such places are not safe at all.

I’ve also only ever seen a total of two tourists venture in.

But the local workers here are mind boggling friendly. And, why not. It’s not everyday they get visitors. What’s more, it’s not every year they get people telling them they have great food. Or photographing them.

It’s smiles, or amazement all around. But there is something else. There is a pride there too.

“In a country I’ve seen become obsessed with fast food, corporate life, luxuries and, sadly, corruption; this is where the good people meet.”

These are the average day people working 7 days a week without a break. There are no pretenses here. You are who you are. A hungry person looking for good food.

Other great worker night food stalls around the world:

Rice, calamansi / chili, bbq squid and bbq pork steak all for $1.10 (click to enlarge)

Peshawar in Pakistan is a place filled with them. Night food stalls and workers from the huge day markets, and overland cargo workers. It’s a frenzy of activity.

Army barracks in West Africa are known for great night barbeque’s.

Spain, nip down a few side streets in Barcelona by the docks at dinner time and you’ll find some of the cheapest and tasty food out there.

The workers street food stalls are the “off the beaten path” destination to many a culinary delight:

Local street food is great. But if you ever want to stray into a realm of real life in just about any place in the world, try to find where the workers are.

For it’s here you will find the freshest, tastiest food that you’ll enjoy with some of the most down to earth friendly people on the planet.

A note on the color: Yes, the meat really does look that red! They cover it in a super rich red marinade! Exaggerated by yellow florescent lights. Here, it’s not about gourmet, it’s all about the eating!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Great food from the Philippines

Food from The Philippines: Honey pollinated by banana bees

The Longest Way Home — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 01:33:23 +0000

Banana Honey

The nectar from banana flowers create a wildly sweet overtone to this fantastic honey (click to enlarge)

I like honey. It tastes good, and is packed with goodness. But as I travel it’s rare that I would actually buy a jar of honey. It’s not so easy to carry around, and it’s not the sort of thing you can eat a lot of, quickly.

The only time I’ve bought it is when I’ve has a sore throat. The last time was in Nepal. Mixed with lemon, it’s a good cure all.

However, during a recent trip back to the Bukidnon Highlands I came across a small bottle of dark honey. And, couldn’t resist. Much to my surprise the sweet thick honey had a distinctly different flavor to it. Something I couldn’t put my finger on until I saw the banana plantations nearby.

Honey from the Philippines tastes different:

As the saying goes. You are what you eat! In this case old Jack fruit trees have been replaces by banana plantations near to where the bee farms are. The bees pollinate both the Jack fruit and Banana trees. Resulting in their honey tasting of these fruits depending on the season.

A hot and humid climate makes photographing honey a unique challenge!

I know in the west people infuse honey with various subtle flavors like cinnamon, or lavender. But that’s basically soaking the honey with extract of whatever flavor you want.

Why this honey tastes better:

Now imagine a flavor becoming a part of honey right from it’s very origins. Bees do this better than man. The flavor is rich with a delicate overtone that lasts in your mouth for some time.

It’s also completely addictive. And, so for the first time I am now carrying around a small bottle of honey. A teaspoon, here, a spoonful there.

It’s not a permanent thing, but at only about $1 a plastic bottle, it’s well worth trying out should you come across it.

Filipinos are not so impressed by this honey, but then subtle tastes are not such a big thing here. Little do they know just how potent this sticky golden syrup really is to the taste buds!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Great food from the Philippines

Finding Buddha in Davao, the Lon Wa Temple or Hua Temple

The Longest Way Home — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 22:53:20 +0000

The Shaolin Temple in Davao City, The Philippines (click to enlarge)

One called this place the Long Hua temple another called it the Lon Wa temple. It’s not that hard to write a guide book based on facts, but still they fail. The name outside is the Shaolin Kung Fu Temple. The taxi and jeepney guys just call it the Chinese temple. This is what got me there!

No stick poking here!

Statue of a lion in the Shaolin Temple in Davao

For once I didn’t have to present my bag for a stupid stick poking by security and just wandered in through the side entrance. The main doors were locked.

A woman with a shaved head greeted me with a warm smile from around a corner. Her look reminded me of my time in Tibet. Then again so did that familiar smell of incense and candle wax that filled the air.

I walked around and down some stairs to find one of a few statues of Buddha. Back up the stairs again and I was interrupted from my second photograph by a pleasant man.

“You need to start over there,” he said pointing out the side entrance again. “They start to pray soon.”

He seemed nice enough until his final comment. “And, you wear shoes! No shoes here.”

I looked down at his own black leather shoes and then at the shaven headed ladies thick sandles.

What’s good in Tibet, is not worthy enough here

“I see, well when I was in Tibet in the Dalai Lama‘s old house they didn’t seem to mind me wearing shoes! And, how come you are wearing them?”

Religious rules while traveling

If there is one thing I have noticed about religion when traveling it’s that nearly every country has a slightly different take on the rules.

“It’s not something often explored by religious commentary and I can see why.”

Statue of Buddha in Davao city (click to enlarge)

Statue of small Buddhist Lama in Davao City (click to enlarge)

The man walked away. I’d finished inside anyway, but couldn’t resist against the stupid non enforced rule.

For those that don’t know, I have a thing against taking my shoes off in side any “religious place’. Let alone when no one else is doing it.

Always an alternative:

Outside and I found the small well kept gardens a lot more pleasant. I’d wanted to ask a few questions about the place. But, the man had put me off, and I really wasn’t so interested anymore.

There was another temple somewhere nearby, I’d heard it was a lot more isolated and unvisited. What better place to visit.

Conform to your own rules religion:

I don’t quite get why religion differs in every country that practices the same kind. Well I do, it’s due to culture and centuries of adaptation.

“But then again, are they not all meant to be under one head Lama, Pope, Mullah e.t.c,.”

And, to me, therein lies one of the main problems with religion in the world today. Everyone is speaking in their own interpretation of what was originally written, no matter the religion.

Much like the guide books who can’t agree on the name of a place.

I wrote an article a while ago about how to deal with religion and travel. In it I state, when asked my religion, I reply “A little bit of everything.”

There’s a reason for that, though I am not sure everyone else agrees.

Coming soon:

A special place that all travelers in every country should know about, but few do, and even fewer go there …

Welcome to Davao city, why are there so many foreigners here?

The Longest Way Home — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 19:20:13 +0000

The wide roads in Davao

Davao city doesn’t get much of a write up in my guide book. All I know of the place is that for some reason it’s popular with foreigners looking for a place to live. Sounds like I had a plan of direction after all.

The guidebook mentioned that crime was low, it has several crocodile farms which they seem obsessed with writing about in every big town here. And, it was a port city which is nothing unusual in the Philippines.

Thank goodness for wiki-travel and word of mouth.

Who lives here?

4,000 expats & foreigners live in Davao. That’s quite a number of foreigners for a place that doesn’t get much of a write up. It meant there had to be something about the place they liked. And, there is. Maybe I’d like it too? Is Davao my missing link …

The best city in the Philippines for getting around:

Davao is quite large, yet it’s relatively easy to get around. The roads are wider than any other city I’ve visited in the Philippines. Traffic seems gentler too. A taxi is no problems, jeepenys and tricycles either. The city doesn’t seem to be in a rush. And, herein lies the secret to Davao.

The Entrance way to China town in Davao city

Contradictions of travel began once I arrived and checked into a cheap pension house not so far from the Ecoland bus terminal. Online most were offered at around 1000 + pesos, on the ground they were 250 -300 fan rooms, and 500 peso A/C rooms right near malls and some of the attractions of the city.

On the ground:

I hate malls, but the temptation of air conditioning at Gaisano Mall was too much, it was also lunch time.

Secondary to that, I was minutely curious to see if it was any different so far south compared to say Manila. Nope, no difference. Floors upon floors of retail outlets and fast food. Slightly higher prices than local places, but pretty much the same.

No free WiFi. And, Smart on my mobile phone is not doing well at all. Hence I am spending a lot of time processing photos.

Time to check out the other sights around Davao City

Rows of Durian fruit at Magsaysay fruit vendors stall in Davao city

Magsaysay fruit vendors is infamous for what the equally known Durian fruit is famous for. The worlds stinkiest fruit in the world is held with pride and passion in this city.

“You try Durian!” called out a woman with a smile as I stumbled onto the market.

I walked over and asked the price of a slice.

“160 pesos” which is about USD $3. I never understood why Durian is so expensive in the Philippines as it’s so populous.

They say the smell is worse than the taste. But I do believe if something smells bad, don’t eat it. I travel long term, this saves me. If I was only there for a few weeks, no problem. (and, yes I have tasted Durian fruit)

Every city has a China town:

China town was a little further up ahead. And again, aside from a colorful archway, was just another street. Though it did have an extra few Chinese stores running along it.

But dark clouds and a sweetness in the air told me it was about to rain. Time to retreat back to Gaisano mall. It took only 10 minutes to get back across the city. This is unheard of in the rest of The Philippines.

China Town road in Davao city

So the answer to why foreigners like Davao is …

The long awaited rains are now here, and the people of the city come into the mall for shelter. Among them, many, many foreigners. These foreigners were different though. Outside of Manila it was the first time I saw younger more long term foreigners in The Philippines.

Volunteers, English teachers and the odd married guy. Workers, people in business attire, and generally slightly smarter looking foreigners. Davao simply makes sense to live in, because it works.

Moreover this is one of the reasons so many foreigners live in Davao. It’s not because it’s the most exciting place in the world. It’s at the bottom of a “war torn” island.

Yet, at the same time its very safe. It’s easy to get around. You can get just about anything you want. And, the pollution is minimal here. Not only that, but the city simply seems to work.

It’s not a paradise island place like El Nido in Palawan. But, it is a good place to live as normal a life as an expat could have overseas, it would seem.

Coming soon:

Finding Buddha …

Food from the Philippines: Lanzones

The Longest Way Home — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 23:02:22 +0000

Lanzones Fruit from The Philippines

Lanzones Fruit from The Philippines (click to enlarge)

The Lanzones fruit from The Philippines is seasonal, and usually only found in the southern islands. It grows and is sold in bunches that resemble grapes, but the Lanzones fruit is about twice the size.

The yellowish skin is easy to peel, revealing a near translucent, segmented flesh underneath. The Lanzones taste is almost akin to that of a grapefruit, thought slightly less bitter, and not overflowing with juice.

Inside some of the Lanzones segments are dark seeds. I’ve eaten a few with no ill effects as they are soft, but they are very bitter. The Lanzones fruit itself is very refreshing, and not heavy at all. The only ill effect is that they can leave your fingers quite sticky. But unlike other fruit, not to the extent to stain your clothes.

A bunch of Lanzones fruit (click to enlarge)

The Lanzones fruit is celebrated on the southern island of Camiguin. Where once a year, they celebrate it’s harvest with the Lanzones festival. Usually around October. Check out my travel story on Miss Camigiuin Island

The fruit also has a season in March / April where prices are as low as 20 peso a half kilo. Or, out in the country it’s nearly free!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Great food from the Philippines

Through the Bukidnon Highlands: rainforests, lost tribes and cool weather

The Longest Way Home — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 22:31:02 +0000

A cool waterfall flows, surrounded by lush green rain forest in the highlands of Bukidnon (click to enlarge)

Bukidnon is an area in north central Mindanao fabled for it’s cooler climate, which produces many of the regions fruit and vegetables. It’s also home to one of the secret treasures of the Philippines not mentioned in any guidebook. The only place with an ethnic festival in the entire country.

Manobo woman in ethnic headdress (click to enlarge)

Looking to see some real ethnic tribes in the world today?

Every year the Kaamulan festival (the harvest gathering) brings the 7 ethnic tribes from the region together. The Talaandig, Matigsalug, Manobo, Tigwahanon, Higaonon, Umayamnon and Bukidnon tribes are all still very active in indigenous ways within this region today. In Malaybalay City they have the Kaamulan 3 week festival every year from mid February until the second week of March.

Nowadays the Manobo and the Bukidnon are the largest of these tribes, and the Kaamulan festival has been recognized since the mid 1970′s.

I’ve been to this festival, and certainly recommend it to anyone wishing to see a diverse sense of culture, and native tradition. I’d also recommend visiting it before modern western style celebrations take over. During my time here I’ve seen the influence of modern festivals taking over the old.

While this can have a place, I’d hate to see over-sized loudspeakers, modern music, flashing lights and the usual troop copycat style dancing take over. For as soon as this happens you’ll have karaoke screens, beer stands and cross dressing boys overwhelming the place as it’s done in other parts of the country.

“The idea is an ethnic festival: keep it traditional, historically interesting, culturally fascinating and I really believe the Kaamulan festival can be a world class event listed as a highlight of The Philippines.”

Will anyone from the tourism board listen though …

Clump of Tall Bamboo in Bukidnon (click to enlarge)

Waterfalls, bamboo, rainforest and cool air

For once in my travels here in the Philippines I’ve found a place with a cool climate. Not so cool as to need a thick jacket, though the locals will be wearing them. But cool enough not to creating patches of sweaty puddles everywhere.

Even the rice terraces and mountains of Banaue in the North of The Philippines are no match for the climate in Bukidnon. Taking a trip into a forest reserve I found it almost like being in another country.

I came across waterfalls with cool mists surrounding them. The heavy humidity seemed to have vanished. The air is cleaner here than anywhere else. It’s a relief to my system.

Tall trees grow high into the sky and giant tufts of bamboo sprout out in random patches. If a Manobo tribesman was to be seen racing through the forest, spear in hand, it would not look out of place in the slightest.

Where endangered foreigners come:

Another little known fact about Bukindnon is that there are a staggering amount of forigners living in the region. And no, these aren’t your typical South East Asian expats. Nor even typical expat in The Philippines. There’s no overweight North European or American male perched in a bar with a younger girl squashed up against him.

These expats live in the surrounding hills with small families. They’re retired. Many have physical disabilities. Many are looking for a simple life. In the cool mountain highlands of Bukidnon, they have found their place to live off the grid.

Ethnic Bukidnon spear-man (click to enlarge)

The kind of place that makes me wonder:

As I make my way south a deep regret with valued knowledge creeps into my minds eye.

“What if I were to stay in Bukidnon?”

A cool climate, friendly people, and a wealth of potential. Is it not the ideal place?

20 years ago I would have said … well yes. 10 years ago I would have said … yes, anything will do. 5.5 years ago I would have said … yes, but I can do better. Today I say … sure, but there’s more to life.

We change as we go through life. Different needs bring different goals. But a memory will always make you think back to the original goal. A simple life in a new land. Do your best.

With that in mind, I move on. The end goal is important, but with it as you pass thorough the memory of a previous goal comes a haunting feeling. The memory of what could have been.

Time to move on …

Coming soon:

Due south …

Food from The Philippines: Chicharrón

The Longest Way Home — Wed, 19 May 2010 23:27:44 +0000

Chicharrón from the Philippines

Chicharrón from the Philippines (click to enlarge)

It’s a universal snack food that drives some people crazy. It will probably be outlawed in some country soon for being too tempting and unhealthy. But then some of the best foods are just that.

Chicharrón is deep fried pig skin. There’s very little else involved here. It comes in various forms, but the most common comes in small bags found in nearly every store. Chicharrón is often lightly flavoured with salt and garlic.

There are numerous makers of Chicharrón in The Philippines. Some are local stalls, though these are losing out to the big manufacturers. Malls have countless Chicharrón stalls set up, each one drapped in bag after bag of crunchy Chicharrón.

I’ve tried it a few times. The best is the one flavored with chilli, it adds a nice kick.

But be warned, it’s heavy on the calories, and I haven’t come across a medical person who doesn’t cringe at the thought of what it’s doing to your arteries. That said, Chicharrón is super cheap, tasty and a great gift to bring along to a party!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Great food from the Philippines

The Arc of Darkness: the dark cloud over Mindanao

The Longest Way Home — Wed, 12 May 2010 22:32:47 +0000

I wrote here about the electrical outages affecting Mindanao in the Southern Philippines.

General Summary: Lack of rainfall means a decrease in water for the hydro plant at Lake Lanao to provide enough electricity for the southern region.

The Dark clouds are here, but only in certain regions ... Why?

After I published this, I received a lot of email & messages via twitter ( @TLWH ). Aside from concerns that I was in this troubled region, many Pinoy’s said they had electricity.

That night in a hot humid & dark guest house room I watched as my phones battery slowly ebbed away. Tweets from Manila said they had 24/7 electricity. Cebu, Palawan had no problems. Okay, even the national newspapers said it was a Mindanao problem, so I wasn’t anxious.

The whole of the Philippines had electricity it seemed ... Except for a region to the south: Mindanao

Then, came a tweet from Davao (southern Mindanao), there were no outages. General Santos, the same, and so it continued.

How come I was getting constant power outages and the rest of The Philippines was alright?

These days Manila gets brownouts every other day, for 2-3 hours. In specific regions of Mindanao, it ranges from 16-5 hours, everyday.

Fuel to the fire:

Add to this warnings that Lake Lanao’s water reserve is so low its past critical. That the hydro turbines are in danger of seizing up with irreversible damage if they continue at such low levels. And, that there are no more reserves to tap into.

Why then when Manny Pacquio was fighting was there 24 hours of electricity?

Why for 3 days during the elections this week was there 24 hours of electricity?

And why, during daylight hours are suburban street lights switched on?

The Arc of Darkness

The outline of the blackout areas is a sobering picture. True sense of it comes if you only know why in this paradise nation, a large portion of it is a no go zone.

As you may know Mindanao is a troubled region in The Philippines. There are many things going on here, and it’s not my place to state who’s right or wrong.

Here’s a general overview:

The MILF/MNLF are an organization that wishes to have a region of Mindanao made autonomous. The region is largely Islamic, in an overwhelmingly catholic country.

It’s known that there are many “private” armies in the region.

Some of whom are controlled by local warlords seeking separation.

The most infamous is the Ampatuan clan. Accused of a mass murder last year of over 50 people. They obtained their arms from the government. Like many political families in the Philippines, the Ampatuan’s have family members from Governors on down to Mayors throughout the region.

Mix this with national government & local intervention and you can see problems. Oh, and should we not forget U.S.A. military training intervention too. Over 150,000 people have died in this little known conflict.

Journalists die here:

In late 2009 over 50 people were mass executed in Mindanao. Over 30 of them were journalists. Here’s a report by ABC reporter Mark Willacy, it’s worth watching (20 mins)

The head of the Ampatuan clan who is / was a friend of the outgoing president, Arroyo, has been arrested, as one of the many accused of organizing the mass killing. He’s shown in the video above. (the latest news is two key Ampatuan members have been released after presenting alibis).

My findings on the Arc of Darkness:

With map in hand I asked some people on the street. Why were certain regions blacked out, and the rest not?

Personally, I feared the worse. With the elections it seemed politically motivated to provoke individuals from within this conflict region. It could affect anyone’s political campaign, one way or another.

My rough map of blackouts in Mindanao

However, there have been no outbreaks of violence or accusations based on this issue alone.

“Why?”

In typical Pinoy fashion it took a while for people to open up with a story. It turned out I met a random person who grew up by lake Lanao. Their view is that the situation is far more financially motivated than political. Yet, the two webs are intertwined.

Lake Lanao is shrinking due to a high level of silt pouring into it. The silt is coming from the surrounding mountains, which are being stripped bare due to illegal logging.

Who is doing the illegal logging? Well, allegedly it’s the local militia and gangsters. They are armed, and well known for kidnapping, ransoming, and executing hostages. Both foreign and local, including reporters and journalists.

1+1=?

None of the above can ever be proved. Maybe this is why mainstream news agencies are not reporting it. Then again, in a land where more reporters have died …

Mindanao is now rated above Iraq & Afghanistan as being the most dangerous place for journalists in the world today.

It’s simply not feasible to garner this evidence if you look at the complexities and people involved within the region. Violence is a simmering undertone here. Profit is undermining that, for now. A lesser of two evils?

Illegal logging is hugely profitable. They are not going to stop. During an election, it would make sense not to rub your sore spots in public. Just let it ride as you turn a blind eye.

Turn off the power, and no one will protest as vast quantities of money is pouring into those allegedly involved in the logging.

Still, why is the government not preventing the illegal logging?

Strange how the electricity which is Nationally governed is only turned off in this outlined troubled region and nowhere else?

Is someone pushing power buttons of a different nature here?

Water levels don't seem that different to me - life goes on either way (click to enlarge)

No escape:

I see this problem escalating over the coming years. If the lake is truely shrinking due to rising silt because of illegal logging, with a growing population - Electric blackouts will become more frequent and last for longer.

What happens if an internal dispute with the factions in control within this Arc of Darkness triggers a retaliation? aka the money runs out.

This could well be the beginning of the end for what some people are already calling a failed state.

The more worrying aspect:

Why is this not being reported more? Yes, there are some columnists writing about this. Yes, there are wild rumors floating about. Yes, there are headlines about Hydro-Power. Yes, certain local electrical companies are using strong words to issue blame and even state that the crises is “artificial” (source the original that was removed ) . But is this garnering national interest, no.

Then again, remember: Mindanao has been quoted as being more dangerous to cover as a journalist than Iraq or Afghanistan.

When you live here, that means something more than just a quote.

The president has declared Mindanao in a state of calamity … but such terms seem to be lost in the media frenzy of the 2010 elections.

Share the load:

Electricity is split into various sub companies that distribute it.

The grid is not physically connected on a national basis. Davao for example is getting electricity from diesel stations. While others rely on hydro.

If this is the case, why can electricity not be purchased from other areas? Other nations can manage this (Nepal/India), why can The Philippines not manage this internally?

The future of Mindanao (The Philippines):

I have tried my best to write great things about Mindanao in my Seeing the Unseen series. Indeed for long term readers here you will no doubt notice the positive slant I give all of The Philippines.

Sadly, in recent times, I see a downward spiral that’s undeniable in fact.

At the moment I cannot hand on heart recommend Mindanao as a tourist destination. Yes, I do think, and believe it’s more safe than international media makes it out to be. But compared to other tourist destinations I cannot recommend it.

It’s a shame, as the majority of the people from this region are some of the nicest, most honest you will meet.

Why then have more journalists been killed here than anywhere else in the world?

Conclusion:

I don’t have the answers in this complex web of so many virtues. All I know is that the rains are overdue. And, with them electricity along with regular services will return.

The people will forget their woes as flash floods and more human tragedy make the headlines once more. Promises by former governments that this would be addressed year in year out will be excused by the new government who in turn will make a promise.

Then next year it will all start over again. And, it will continue on until there are no more trees left to fell.

Or, when the money runs dry like the lake. Then, I fear, something much worse will bring the worlds media back to Mindanao.

–Update–

Since election day there have been no electricity blackouts. There’s a new president elect from a party that’s currently not in power. There has been no heavy rain since election day either, so I imagine that Lake Lanao is still at “critical level” for producing hydro power.

There were few problems in Mindanao over the election period. Yes, there were deaths, under a dozen were reported, but nothing of note to suggest ill will nor disruption to the masses.

That’s not counting debacles such as polling equipment not showing up, broken machines, lack of officials and vast queues of voters unable to vote due to this and more. Lesser known in Mindanao are the reports of trucks filled with armed people preventing local villagers from leaving their houses on polling day.

The official response to the electrical crisis has always been a lack of rainfall and a lake that’s been been at “critical” and danger levels for months. People are not asking why the electricity is back for fear it might remind someone to hit the power button again.

More clouds on the way:

For one week the people here have had constant electricity for the first time in months. The only thing that’s changed is the election is over and new people are coming into office.

Will this and the other problems in Mindanao continue? Yes. This was only a new one. And, at the moment it’s not officially over. The people within the Arc of Darkness are just greatful that for the past week life has returned to normal. They are still very aware that at any minute the light may go again.

A few brave souls now mention the impending rains.

The ground is hard, when the rains come they will bounce off the earth and form this years flash floods. Another repetitive tragedy is looming.

With a new administration comes new hope. Every cloud is meant to have a silver lining. I hope for the people of Mindanao this is true. For now though, the problems in Mindanao seem to be on hold; as the people live day by day in wait …

Coming Soon:

Decision Time

Food from The Philippines: Pomelo

The Longest Way Home — Sun, 09 May 2010 21:25:06 +0000

Pomelo fruit from The Philippines

Pomelo fruit from The Philippines (click to enlarge)

From the outside the Pomelo fruit looks like a Melon of some kind. The skin is surprisingly soft, and relatively easy to peel. Inside The Philippines version of the Pomelo looks like a giant pink grapefruit.

Only it’s not bitter at all. The taste is certainly a part of the citrus family, but the sweet kind. Pomelo fruit segments are large, and break easily. But unlike its cousins the Pomelo segments stay intact.

Within each segment are strong pulpy cells that contain the sweet citrus like flesh. It makes The Filipino Pomelo is a very easy fruit to eat. Although a little large for just one person.

Filipinos eat the Pomelo fruit with salt. But without salt it tastes just great. A really good fruit to take on hikes or treks due to it’s high level of water, and ability to travel well.

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Food from the Philippines

My first & last article about the Philippine elections

The Longest Way Home — Sat, 01 May 2010 22:40:36 +0000

Taking politics into account when traveling, living overseas or searching for a country to call home is important. However, I have a rule. I will not write in-depth personal articles about a country’s politics. As a traveler I don’t think it’s my business to get involved with internal politics.

It’s up to a nations citizens, in a free society, to dictate a countries path.

Street Girl eating someones leftovers at a market: somehow, her needs are not making the front page of any newspaper

As a traveler in The Philippines in search of a place to live, I can’t help but put this rule up for consideration.

Many long term readers of my journal will know that the political situation in Nepal is one of the reasons I left, near heartbroken, but with the gift of hope.

New amendment to the rule:

I will write about politics, but from my own perspective, on how it effects my view on making a specific country my home. However it will not include publizing nor promoting any political party whatsoever. I remain as with the first rule, neutral. As I believe, I should be.

Elections in The Philippines:

It’s not making international headlines anywhere, but, it’s election time in The Philippines. The current presidents term is up, and according to the constitution she cannot run for office again.

In a country that’s had scandal embroiled leaders for decades its good to see the gears of democracy working for once. However, all is not what it seems on the front page. Open the paper on Pinoy politics and you will see something much murkier.

I dubbed Vladamir Putin’s from President to ruling prime minister the new trend in political leadership “Doing a Putin“. Word on the street is that there are similar ideas here. Leader of the lower house is also allegedly on the cards.

Celebrity politics & Dynasty politics, my personal dislikes:

The current run of politicians running for presidency in The Philippines includes:

husbands of actors & tv personalities
former presidents convicted of plunder yet pardoned by current presidents
religious types
a person currently in prison
a chief justice
the son of a former president who’s related to famous actors
and someone who crows like a chicken ( I joke not)

Quite a mixed bag, eh?

There are two main trends here. Actors or those related to them, and former presidents and their relatives.

Example of dynasty politics in the Philipines:

In southern Mindanao there is a family of politicians - the father was a congressman, the mother a governor, a nephew is vice-governor and a brother is congressman who is stepping down due to his term being up. A brother is looking to take over.

What’s happening on the ground:

Cars, shops and streets are clustered with billboards, signs, and posters. Weekend evenings are filled with party like political gatherings shouting out slogans and handing out paraphernalia to the beat of music.

A political milkshake - yes, political advertising is everywhere in The Philippines

New roads have been built faster in the last few months than in the past few years, it seems. Newspapers headline with rumors, and quotes of “he said / she said”.

At rallies trucks of villagers are being driven in, fed free food and allegedly seem to be given “donations” to support / promote a candidate as being popular. Again, let me point out, this is the word on the street.

There is an air of fiesta everywhere.

What are the People saying:

The Pinoy’s I talk to are not shy with talking politics. Yet they do so in two extremes. One half dance around as if their candidate is the next super hero coming to save the nation. The other half shrug them all off as being corrupt and as bad as the next.

The latter also say politics here is embarrassing, and the reason for problems in their country.

Ask about a candidates mandate and few can list them. The reason why they are voting for a candidate? I am told, ” *candidate name* is the lesser evil“.

Akin to …

Whenever there is a major event in The Philippines, its popularised by a fiesta. Earth hour is a prime example. The country, in particular certain regions in Mindanao, is being devistated by power outages. Yet Earth Hour was celebrated in some places with stage lights, loudspeakers blaring out music, and giant mega malls hosting them with all their lights on.

Yes, there are plenty of posters saying what it’s all about, but “somehow”, is the real message getting lost during all the pomp and fiesta?

Election time:

When Manny Paquio ( boxer) recently announced he would run for Congress the media jumped at it, I wonder if the reality of fact is getting overshadowed?

Just recently two people accused of being involved with the mass murder of over 50 people including the killing of more journalists than anywhere else on earth were set free.

The electrical crises continues with no sustainable solutions in sight.

The world food shortage problem seems to have been forgotten about in light of what’s currently trending the media.

Thousands have been made homeless in a recent slum fire in Manila, little is being said about what any future or current government will do to help those with nothing.

My view on Global Politics in my search:

The age of political celebrity, and dynasty politics is a global phenomenon that’s growing. In the U.S.A. it’s been around for a long time. The President is in fact, the biggest celebrity in the country.

In the U.K. the Prime Minister is perhaps overshadowed by royalty. But, there are also two brothers that hold key appointments in government. Can you see the future here?

In France the covers of gossip magazines offer non-stop coverage of the presidents celebrity wife. And, people buy it.

In Nepal the Former King allegedly wiped out his whole family, the maoists came to power, then walked out. There’s still no constitution, and in fact, at the moment, the country is an illegal state. My guess is, the deadline will pass. And, there is a Banda (strike) today.

Where is it all headed?

I don’t know. But I do know: I don’t like its current direction.

In my global search to find a place to live I am finding myself looking at politics with a more weighty eye.

The west is becoming more totalitarian in a terrifyingly Orwellian way. While other countries follow suit, clambering for celebrity politicians, dynasty power holders, and all the while throwing caution to the wind.

My only answer is to turn away, but then again could that be shooting oneself in the foot …

Coming Soon:

The Arc of Darkness

Food from The Philippines: Quail Eggs

The Longest Way Home — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:54:25 +0000

Quail Eggs from The Philippines

Quail Eggs from The Philippines (click to enlarge)

From Balut to duck & chicken The Philippines, it seems, is quite partial to eggs. Walk down any food stall, shopping center, or night market and you will see various types of egg being cooked.

Quail eggs are usually gently steamed in large containers. The speckled shells are much thinner than chicken eggs so greater care is needed in cooking them.

The taste of a quail egg is not that different at all from a chicken egg. Quail eggs are, slightly sweeter, but not to any great degree. That said, Filipinos adore them. And, much like in other parts of the world they are special treat.

They are also not that expensive, and well worth a try!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Great food from the Philippines

Meet the Blind Masseurs of Cagayan de Oro

The Longest Way Home — Sun, 25 Apr 2010 21:35:43 +0000

Blind Masseurs in Cagayan de Oro

Seeing the Unseen: in it’s truest sense

As long term readers of this journal and my exclusive RSS / Email updates will know I spent a lot of time making this travel journal accessible to those with sight impairments. Not only is there a high contrast sight impaired version of this travel blog here. But at the top of each post here there’s also a “listen now” button.

Also, each entry in my travel stories page comes with a podcast version.

“Why all this extra effort?”

I’ve spent my life fighting to survive one way or another. To get this far is still quite unfathomable in my own mind sometimes. I am now on my own on a search that’s leading me around the world. If I don’t make it, then I most certainly gave my life to a cause I believe in.

This does not make me special, for there are thousands of others around the world who have to fight everyday to survive. More so to get out.

Being blind or sight impaired in the developed world is tough enough. Now imagine it in a place that tourists with guidebooks and gps systems have a problem getting around. Yes, that’s a terrible example, but there are many other underlying problems the blind and others of disadvantage in the Philippines face everyday.

“Nonacceptance, lack of independence, freedom and social inequality to name but a few.”

To spend some time in opening the accessibility of my travel journals to a section of world society who may not get to experience travel like I do, has always been a pleasure. People have emailed me telling me my story and journey is turning into one of their favorite weekly reads … it’s good to know.

What does it deliver?

The audio and high contrast version of my journal hopefully provides some entertainment, interest, and maybe, just maybe some inspiration or happiness for those that don’t have access to such material else where.

So imagine my delight when I met the Blind Masseurs of Cagayan de oro city in Mindanao. For the first time I was able to look, and listen on as I brought their names, faces and story to a travel article I wrote.

“Where are the talking pictures?” Gracia would ask as I passed through the following week from Iligan.

“Right here, ” I said pulling my internet enabled phone out from my pocket.

Right then and there I watched some faces smile as they heard their names and stories come in from the world wide internet. A concept they are all too knowledgeable about. It was an honor and a privilege to bring their stories to the world.

I also know that Lu, Grace, Andy, Ne-ne, Joel and the rest of the guys are going to listen to this as well. I can also imagine them smiling as they listen on to this message -

“Mabuhay guys! Glad to have you listening along to my talking pictures! I hope the rains come for you soon. Anyone meet a new boyfriend or girlfriend yet? ha ha ha. Keep safe, study, be what you want.

And, remember your message – Treat us like normal people!!! But to me, you guys are very very EXTRAordinary in a very good way! Well done for accomplishing so much. You deserve to be proud of yourselves!”

If you’d like to read the full story about these guys, then you can right here on my travel stories page read more …

Small note: It doesn’t take much to put a free audio button on your website or blog. And, in doing so you could be opening up your story, travels, and world to whole new audience that will love every minute of it.

Put aesthetics, page load, and the other ‘web’ oriented thoughts aside. And just deliver something good to people out there that might not otherwise get an opportunity. This is especially true of travel blogs, or other blogs that tell a story that people can listen too.

You bring your stories to the world, but there’s also a whole group of people who’d like to hear about it too!

You could also just create a separate page with an audio version, or offer an audio rss feed. Check out odiogo.com which can offer an audio feed within 5 minutes. Yet, give years of enjoyment to a lot of people.

If you do any of the above, let me know and I’ll be happy to link to your website and give you a mention.

Coming Soon:

More great food from the Philippines

Seeing the Unseen: The Coconut Farmers

The Longest Way Home — Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:34:31 +0000

Coconut Farming boy in Mindanao

Seeing the Unseen: The Coconut Farmers

Deep in the middle of Mindanao I was lucky enough to visit one such farm run by an elderly man called Steven. It ‘s a place no tourist has been to. At least Steven says so. And why would they.

It’s not in a guide book. It’s got nothing of massive interest. You have to travel across some rough places on a crowded Jeepney to get there. I think it was my first Pinoy rooftop trip!

But it’s a place with more value than any “tourist attraction” I’ve read online or on paper. What’s the value? Quite simply, the people.

His house is across a river, through a small trail surrounded by tall palm trees and encroaching undergrowth. His simple house has a striking resemblance to west African dwellings, complete with outside kitchen and plastic buckets. Not to mention several containers of palm wine. Slowly fermenting into something a little more toxic to the liver.

At Steven’s invitation I headed off for some coconuts with him and one of the local boys that hang out by his house waiting for work.

Click here to read the whole story …

Coming soon on Seeing the Unseen: the last in this series, and yes it’s special. Meet the blind masseurs …

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting the island of Mindanao & the people living in The Philippines