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Travel Journal Overview: No one seemed that excited about the Wagah border when I mentioned it. Few actually knew what it was. For me I knew a little of the history between Pakistan and India. And, I think more than anything else for an overland traveler it is one of the greatest spectacles on earth when it comes to borders. At least for me. Check out the video link at the bottom of the page.

The Wagah Border Ceremony from the Pakistani side (click to enlarge)

Needing to get to infamous Wagah Border Ceremony that afternoon I took the fastest of looks at Badshahi mosque, and was blown away by its awesome size and beauty. I needed to extend by a day.

A the hotel the Serb’s had changed their mind about going to the Wagah border ceremony as did a new comer German youngster. Malik, the hostel owner, had told be it would only cost 25 rupees to take a local bus. I cringed at the idea. First I would have to take another Rickshaw across the city = 60 rupees. Then battle endless questions on where on how to find the actual bus. And the same on way back. Instead I headed to a Taxi rank and one guy who had been bugging me for a ride since I had arrived in Lahore. It would cost me 700 for a drive there, and back plus 2 hours waiting time. I took it.

I arrived at the border about 30 minutes before the daily ceremony was about to begin. Here is where each evening both Pakistani and Indian sides gear up ceremonial border with full military and civilian honors for the ‘lowering of the flags’.

I looked at the long green and white border gate ahead, in full few from football like stadium seats a little back on either side and exclusive VIP seats just in front. I was motioned to the VIP section, but managed to take a little detour up into the stadium section. I was luck I took the one on the right as they were segregated on this side of the border.

All most immediately a selection of speakers boomed on some generic Pakistani pop music, and the small crowed that gathered cheered. Already I could feel this was something very special in the world. I have crossed many many overland borders, and this was for sure the most unique.

From my vantage point I could see clearly the small gathering at the Pakistani side of the border, and the bus loads of Indians getting off on the other side of the double gates. Below a man dressed in a Pakistani flag t shirt and waving a similar flag on a pole came running over to the grassy area below us.

He began to shout up encouragement to our small crowd. They responded with passion. Cheers of ‘Pakistan’ and ‘Allah is great, Pakistan is great’ rose up and with friendly fists and smiles directed at their Indian counterparts.

Officers in full dress uniform came marching down, as late comers flocked into the VIP seats. Soldiers kicked their legs in the air as if in a slapstick comedy. Spurred on by shouts from the crowd. Chants and cheers rose up as people ran towards the border gates waving the Pakistani flag. On the other side the Indian’s cheers for their ceremony were drowned out by the passion of the crowd.

The flag ceremony commenced and we watched on as flag bearers lowered the two flags at the same time before exchanging the most brief of handshakes and salutes. The gates were slammed shut, and the music was turned up.

This was pure theatre between the once and sometimes still warring nations. And it was fantastic. This noise. the pompous over acting, the passion from the crowd all made it quite a skeptical. Both sides trying to out do each other. I might me a little bias, but it did seem the Pakistani soldiers kicked their legs higher into the air.

It seemed like a little let down to have to undergo the 2 hour saga of using the Regal Internet Inn’s washing machine later that might. But a KFC dinner made up for it.

Some related links from this website that  you might like: (including a lot more photographs and video from Pakistan)

Stories about: The Pakistani Truck Painters

Stories from: The Last Khyber Pass Journey

Video of : The Wagah Border Ceremony

Pakistan Travel Guide

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