Updated: December 7th 2016 | Nepal travel guides
An easy to reach popular temple along the western outskirts of Kathmandu city Swayambhunath is more commonly known as The Monkey Temple.
The main entrance has 365 stone steps which need to be climbed before you reach the temple complex (can be tiring and slippery if raining).
Swayambhunath was founded by the great-grandfather of King Mānadeva at the beginning of the 5th century.
The main attraction is a large white stupa surrounded by many small shrines and temples.
Swayambhunath got it's name "Monkey Temple" because Manjushree, the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning was raised on the hill which the Swayambhunath Temple now stands on.
He grew his hair long and head lice grew. It is said that the head lice transformed into the monkeys that now live around the temple.
The temple underwent a major renovation in 2010 which included over 20kg of gold to re-gild the dome.
The Anantapur shrine (one of the large white chedis) was destroyed during the April 25th earthquake in Nepal. The monastery at the back of the stupa was also damaged. However the vast majority of Swayambhunath survived. Details can be found in my guidebook below.
There are a couple of very small local eateries at the top.
The monkeys found at Swayambhunath are Rhesus Macaques.
Swayambhunath is easily pronounced " Swahi - an - boon - eth "
Both ancient scriptures and historical evidence states that Kathmandu Valley was once submerged in water. Mythology says that from this lake a single lotus blossom emerged. The valley then became known as Swayambhu or “self-created”. A secondary legend tells of a temple that sprang from a lake which had an eternal flame over which Swayambhunath was then built.
There is a written testament that suggests King Varsadeva built a temple here at the beginning of the 5th century. There is also a damaged stone tablet at the site which confirms that King Mānadeva had work done here in 640AD.
What is known is that Swayambhunath most likely arose from a series of smaller temples on the hill. These smaller temples finally merged into the large stupa that we see today. King Pratap Malla built the long stairs that leads to the stupa during the 17th century.
- Climb the full 365 steps to the top - take a breather on the way up to enjoy the small stupas, monkeys and watch vendors prices go up!
- Circle the stupa at the very top
- Do visit the small temples and shrines around the main stupa
- Visit one of the many singing bowl stores in the back streets at the top
- Enjoy the view of Kathmandu from the top
- If you have time walk down the stairs behind the stupa to the world peace pond. There are sometimes some local artisans along these steps.
Beware of the monkeys - they steal food, shiny objects and will take things from your hand or bag! Likewise beware of souvenir store prices around Swayambhunath - a 200rps singing bowl might set you back 2,000rps here.
Looking for more? Read about the secret places to visit around Swayambhunath.
Just before you reach the top of the steps as the impressive stupa comes into view you’ll come across the huge vajra or lightning bolt that’s set upon a mandal with animals shown at its base.
It is rumored that in the 14th century Mughal raiders broke the dome in search of gold. Later on British troops found gold in the nearby forests. Since then the stupa has been repaired many times over.
It’s also here that you will notice the giant eyes that are painted on all four sides of the upper portion of the stupa. While many call these the eyes of Buddha there is little agreement on who or what they mean. One belief is that they are the guardians or Lokpals who are the directional guardians of the universe.
The eyes first appeared in the 16th century so they are relatively new. However, for most people, they are simply the eyes of Buddha gazing out over the valley. Surrounding the stupa are brass prayer wheels which can be spun to bring good fortune when om mani padme hum (“hail to the jewel in the lotus”) is recited.
Turn to your left from the 365 steps and there will be a small building that contains one of the fve elements placed in cardinal points around Swayambhunath.
This one is dedicated to Vasupura (earth). The other symbols (marked on the map) around the stupa include: Vayupura (air), Nagpura (water), Agnipura (fire), and Shantipura (sky). Each symbol also represents a diﬀerent aspect of Buddhism.
See my guidebook for full details of the elements at Swayambhunath.
To the rear of the stupa just to the left at
the corner is a small
red brick building
that houses the dimly-lit museum. It was
slightly damaged in
the earthquake but
Inside there's a small collection of Buddhist statues and items located around the stupa over the years. It's free to enter.
At the rear of the temple is a beautiful two-tiered gilded Newari style temple. Photographs are not allowed to be taken in front of the temple where the shrine is. However you may photograph the temple from the side or rear.
The Hariti Temple is one of the most popular in all Kathmandu and there is often a crowd here. Hariti is the goddess of smallpox who brings both the disease and the cure to children. For now it’s important to know that smallpox was once the scourge of Kathmandu that showed no mercy from the very poor to royalty.
Walk to the rear of the
Hariti/Ajima Temple and take a
left past the chaityas to the
back of the compound.
There in a red brick alcove
standing tall and large is a
black stone Buddha.
Carved from a single piece
of stone sometime during
the 7th century there is none other like it in
Nepal. The image is said to be that of Siddhartha
The tall white temple in front of the monastery has been rebuilt several times. A fire damaged it in the early 2000s and it collapsed shortly afterwards. It was then rebuilt but in 2011 was struck by lightning and damaged again. The temple opposite it (Anantapur) was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake. .
The damaged building off to the north of the main compound holds some of Nepal’s most famous tales. Built over 1500 years ago it was originally dedicated to the sky god. However its current name came from a Vajrayana priest Shantikaracharya.
Shantikaracharya became so powerful it’s rumored that he could command spirits, spells and even gods. He is also said to have conquered death. After sealing himself into the third subterranean chamber he came out brieﬂy when King Gunakamadeva beseeches the priest to help with a drought.
The priest came out with Nagas and water was brought back to the city. Later King Pratap Malla entered the temples underground chambers seeking similar help. He found the priest looking emancipated but alive. Shantikaracharya pointed to a mandal on a scroll which the king took outside and it began to rain. So proud was the king he wrote a poem about it which is inscribed inside the building.
Down a flight of steps from Shantipur is a collection os smaller stupas, a bell and the world peace pond. To the rear of the pond is a small forest. Meanwhile opposite the world peace pond is the side entrance to the stupa complex.
Just up the hill is Whochen Thokjay Choyaling Monastery. Meanwhile outside the stupa's side entrance is the natural history museum and further along the road Buddha Park which contains some impressive giant Buddha statues.
For day trippers or those wanting to make the most out of their visit it's highly recommended you read about the buildings and secrets around Swayambhunath or for even more value for money my Kathmandu city guidebook.
The current fee for foreigners is 200rps. The ticket office is at the bottom of the steps. During off peak season the ticket office is often moved to the top of the stairs.
Don't want to pay? Visit the monastery at the back of the Swayambhunath complex. Then Simply walk down to the world peace pond and up into the temple.
Contact telephone number of Swayambhunath office: 01- 4281889/4277236
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