The Longest Way Home Travel Blog

Children fishing in Davao

To most people looking at the Philippines, from overseas, there are pristine beaches, lush rice terraces and all manner of diving opportunities. But, there is also one giant black spot; Mindanao. Just about every country has it black listed as a no go area.

It’s not my place as a traveller to get into internal politics nor disputes. Nor do I fill my journal here with such writings.

The basic outline is that there are several internal conflicts in the region resulting in kidnappings, prison breaks, bombings and other not so peaceful actions. Including the killing of more journalists than anywhere else in the world as of late 2009.

Rural Bus in Mindanao

Local bamboo ferry

Indeed in 2008 the President declared it a warzone, its still one today in certain regions. Or at least under emergency rule at one time or another – just don’t tell anyone as you’d never guess it was!

So what better place for me to go and live in for a while?

In truth it has nothing to do with it being a warzone more than it is unexplored. The place is not visited that often by tourists, nor travelers. Davao, is an exception and an extremely safe city. As is Cagayan de Oro which is the gateway to Camiguin island. Even Zamboanga City to the far west is a safe place, if you know how to travel safely.

I’ve found Mindanao to have more indigenous festivals than any other region in The Philippines. There are cool forested regions, the food is good and never have a I seen any misgivings. The army is certainly more present in Mindanao than anywhere else, but then that’s a good thing considering the troubles there. Stop and search procedures on buses take place regularly, though never very thoroughly.

Having lived and traveled in other hot zones like West Africa, Pakistan and during the riots in Tibet I

The Army is a presence in Mindanao

know all too well the pluses and minuses of such regions.

• They can be expensive due to the fact that few tourists go there, so the accommodation is usually equipped only for the business class.

• The people can be shy due to the over cautious attitude often needed in such places.

• As a foreigner I stand out and am talked about more than anyone else. My movements noted, and I will be the center of all things gossipy. This can be good, and bad. But I know how to handle it.

• Getting to some areas may be difficult, due to both communication and transport changes in such regions. e.g. Not everyone will quite understand why I would want to go into the highlands …

Devoid of backpackers, tour groups and package tourists Mindanao offers a refreshing cultural aspect of the Philippines that many people simply do not get to see or experience.

Whilst the beaches are not a touch on Palawan, nor are there massive rice terraces like in Banaue, there is a wealth of festivals and local culture that’s hard to get anywhere else in world. It’s hard not to feel alive in such a place!

Welcome to a new part of my travels and search for home in the Philippines. It’s time to see the places others fear to go and time to get to know some locals … And oh yea, did I mention that I might have secured some short term “work” cough, I mean “volunteer opportunity” cough, I mean …

Coming soon:

Seeing the Unseen: Introducing some people …

Back in the day
When I was about to embark on this journey, to travel the world in search of home, I knew that I needed some form of “Ultimate” guide.

Let’s not forget this was over 5 years ago. Google Maps was only in development then, Lonely Planet was just releasing PDF’s and there was barely a glint of a smart phone on the horizon let alone an iPad to store or view anything.

The here and now alternatives

Times, and my travels have changed though. Now a laptop is under 1kg, and better yet – the smartphone, iPad like tablets and wide-scale wifi availability bring together a challenge to the paperback bible of travel.

As much as I have respected the information within Lonely Planet in the past, my enthusiasm has faded over the years.

Return of the Rough Guide?

Maybe this is due to my own experience level in travel increasing, or because of new alternatives. Back then I only tore out the pages I needed. Mainly the maps.

Once I know how to get to a place, it’s all easy from there.

That said, one alternative – Rough Guide’s generally comes under less of my tearing frenzy due to some genuinely interesting writing. Unfortunately I find their maps and labeling system chronically annoying and outdated. As for the other guides … well, let’s just say they’re not for me. Footprint was borderline once, nice maps, but the structure …

With a smartphone in hand I have access to Wiki’s, hostel review sites, blogs, and travel forums. Not to mention the ultimate in self location awareness – Google Maps. Mix in some pre-downloaded Nokia Maps, and a cheap sim in every country how could I possibly get lost? Everything is in my pocket.

Pro’s & Con’s of  using both methods in travel
I travel far too often and for too long to carry the physical weight and expense of a new Lonely Planet Guide for each country. It’s simply not logical. I have looked at their buy by chapter and calculated it out to be about the same cost as buying the book depending on where and what you are printing.

Torn out LP pages that end up in my side pocket

In fact the whole print a chapter thing simply does not work in some countries. I’ve brought my shiny USB into plenty of places en-route and asked if they can print a few chapters out, only to be greeted with a shaking head. When the heads do nod, then the printing is only one sided, and on an excessively expensive ink-jet printer. Dejected I begin the $5 bartering process with the man with the latest “pre-release” edition of said guidebook waiting outside with a waggling head. Faded maps and all.

Fresh from ripping out the useful bits from the guidebook and designating the ‘flowery language’ bits concerning ‘overly friendly locals’ to the bin; I take out my smart phone.

Here though I find PDF guides equally inept. Constant scrolling, ill fitting on-screen pages and the lack of ability to take fast easy notes frustrates me too much to make this medium work for me either.

An iPad, no thanks. It’s too big & awkward for taking out on the street the way I travel, and it has severe limitations that a smartphone can offer as an all in one device.

Enter Google with another option to knowing where I am and what there is to see: Search and Mapping.

Still, up until one year ago Google had not mapped El Nido, not that the tiny town in Palawan (Philippines) is hard to get lost in. But it’s always good to know that the place at least exists!

Recently though, I checked again and it’s there! Road names and all, with a little blue GPS dot flashing my exact location. The cost to me, mere cents. It’s near impossible to get lost anywhere with this system.

What’s more, Google Maps are accurate. I seem to remember walking down a main road in Brasov Romania that wasn’t listed on my Lonely Planet map. It was 4am, it took 3 hours to find a crummy recommended hostel – and yes; I am still a bit bitter.

With Google Maps if I type in a search for a guesthouse it will fire back something useful, like it’s exact location, plus linked reviews. Pure travellers bliss. In Manila I could get off a bus onto a crowded road and head straight in the direction of the guesthouse that promised no GAP year students, no tour groups – touts at the bus station, be damned.

With the torn out page solution it would always take a while until I got my bearings. Street signs permitting, elbows at the ready; I stare at a crumpled map while telling the touts that I know exactly where I am!

There simply is no doubt; Google’s application kicks Lonely Planet’s proverbial paper map to the curb. Mix in ready access to wiki’s, forums, and reviews – it seemed near perfect.

That is until a few months ago.

Perhaps it’s Google playing with Augmented Reality, or perhaps someone is still practicing the moniker of BETA testing. But now as I search for a guesthouse on Google Maps – at least 4 or more little red markers pop up in different areas of the map telling me this is where the guesthouse is.

Misinformation overload at its worst timing.

Information overload, I just want the hotel I typed in!

These are user additions. I notice these additions come and go. Maybe they know this has the potential to be not so good. As in the photo example here, too much information can get a little confusing. The problem is, as I’m sure you can imagine, this can cause a traveler untold problems in finding the right place. Likewise with “suggestions”, or other places to stay.

Eventually, I suspect Google will soon monetize maps with sponsored listings, thus making it even more tedious to find the cheap, or pre selected guesthouse of choice. Least we forget what happens when we are in a country without gprs/3G etc, or we simply run out of credit/coverage or battery. Overland travel is another story, as more often than not there is no sim available at the border.

And no, I am not a fan of prepaid plans on international roaming rates. In country sim’s and costs are simply much cheaper, for my type of travel at least.

As for Nokia Maps? Well the idea is nice. Download all the maps to your phone, and you don’t even need an internet connection to get around… unfortunately they’ve not even road mapped the Philippines yet, and I am not holding my breath. What’s more, at one stage my Nokia map was telling me whilst in El Nido, that I was 5 miles out to sea… useful eh?

The result

Satellite view of El Nido

Is technology lagging here or is it the companies themselves? Surely Lonely Planet can see the writing on the wall? Using a combination of Wikitravel, hostel sites, and google maps, one can effortlessly move around a country knowledgeably without stepping out of place even once nor have the need to carry a hefty paper book around.

Or will Google’s monetization of maps and reliance on user contributions and ‘connected only’ regions cause it’s own downfall in the world of travel? I think not. Frustrate users, yes, but fail, no.

Will Lonely Planet risk all on Augmented Reality in the hope that it’s users will follow their prechoosen walking tour paths? Maybe so. And maybe it will work for a certain type of tourist. City breaks, weekend travelers etc

One things for sure; Apple iPad apps, private travel companies developing mobile app’s, interactive website guides and a host of other media are all also thinking about how they can get a bite of the travel guide pie. Maybe even Rough Guide’s will move back into the picture and surprise us all with something revolutionary.

Same view, different angle, no need for Augmented Reality here! (click to enlarge)

Google is pushing ahead either way; and, it’s working to an extent. Lonely Planet still has a great reputation, the feel good factor of a book, market dominance, and hopefully, if not obsessing too much with iPhone & iPad beta apps, a plan to move forward with innovative technology.

As for me?
I still shred guidebooks, and photocopy pages. They lurk with a pen in a side pocket. I like having this information to hand and the ability to scribble notes only I can read. But in my other pocket are two batteries, a smart phone, and the ability to not waste time in getting to exactly where I want to go with the exact information I need.

Both serve a purpose for my travels, for now. But I wonder which pocket is more likely to be emptied in the future?

Coming Soon:

Mindanao; Google have mapped it, LP barely mention anything about it! It’s technically a warzone (gloria said so), and yes I’m right in the middle of it with something very new to say…

Sunlight shining on a Tarsier in Bohol (click to enlarge)

There are some animals in the world I really like. I knew the Tarsier was one of them even before I got to see one in person.

Wide eyed Tarsier in Bohol

According to Wikipedia they are haplorrhine primates, according to my guide book they are not primates. I believe there is a debate going on about it amongst the scientific community.

They are nocturnal creatures that are endangered. In Bohol there are a number of stores in the town with caged Tarsiers. I met a lot of tourists who only went to see them there for close up shots. I found it incredible to listen to them go on about environmental protection, and then go and do a thing like that. I did not.

Instead, I went to the sanctuary on a Sunday and spent a whole afternoon walking back to a main junction trying to get back to my cottage. Transport around Bohol is indeed an issue.

Curious Tarsier looks a photographer up and down

I would have preferred to have spent the day in the company of these incredible creatures instead. The center itself was small, but clean and well kept. It seemed to be held together by one man and his son. It also seemed to be in the midst of being closed down. Lost in a sea of bureaucracy.

For the Tarsiers alone I am glad I came to Bohol, if not the Philippines.

UNESCO can shove their world heritage proposed site, the Chocolate Hills, up Sabang’s dark tunnel of alleged world corporate profit making wonders of the word, and start helping out the Tarsier protection system that is in dire need of organized help.

Oh wait, they don’t list animals as heritage. WWF are you still around?

I arrived back at my cottage by nightfall. I was right to not to spend longer in Bohol, my living on an island series was chosen well in Palawan. Bohol has all the makings of a great place to visit, and indeed rain aside has a lot to see.

But I found the tourist offerings all talk and no action. See this, do that. But, we’re not going to help you get there easily if you’re not on a package.

Sleepy Tarsier in Bohol

Granted it’s not hard to do it independently. But really, and honestly, it could be made a lot better. Sign posts, transport links and information not geared towards tour groups or package tours would really help.

Then again, maybe it’s the package tourist that they are looking for?

Not to my amazement, on leaving Bohol, I found out a whole lot more … New resorts are getting ready to be set up. Chinese tourists are on the way. The block house resorts and being constructed. Karaoke boat cruises on a river lit up with an underground lighting system are already well established. And, ear grindingly awful I might add.

The potential is there for Bohol. I went caving, and for a trek as well. It was really nice. But again I see Bohol selling out to overseas investors at the price of the Tarsier and its individual extinction.

Yes, that is my point here.

As the debate continues on how to “class” the Tarsiers, they will soon be gone I fear. I hope that I am wrong. But I don’t see anything happening otherwise. A man tried about 10 years ago, but it seems little support has left things floundering.

Hopefully someone out there will think of something other than profiting from tourism; and help the incredibly beautiful, timid and amazing Tarsiers before it really is too late.

—UPDATE—

If you are just reading this article for the first time, please read the comments below before reading the update here. It will give you a better idea of the time line, and events

As regular readers of my journal here know; I don’t often get involved in the internal workings of a place I am traveling. It’s not my place to do so. But for every rule, there is an exception. Due to comments here and the emails I received in regards to the plight of the Tarsier in Bohol I took some time out to follow up on some requests.

Firstly I emailed WWF HQ requesting information about their involvement with the Tarsier in Bohol. I got an automated ticket reply.

Then 24 hours later got a badly laid out email that also looked quite automated. In it I was given a link to the old looking Philippine WWF website, and generic information about the Tarsier. None of which I requested. Not only that, but there were more spam looking links included requesting donations, purchases of WWF material than I would normally get in any normal spam email.

Not so happy, I did the following. I used twitter to send WWF a message. I then emailed WWF Bohol’s office, and WWF Philippines HQ. At the same time, a kind reader of this website also emailed me and said they would contact WWF from their end as well.

About a week later, I am please to say that a representative of WWF Philippines replied with a very detailed email regarding the Tarsier, and WWF’s situation in The Philippines.

I believe in email confidentiality and will not publish the entire email here. However I did write back and request if I could quote from the email. My request was granted and here is the outline of the situation:

“With such a broad presence, WWF necessarily concentrates on one or two fields per country. WWF-Malaysia for example, has extensive terrestrial and forest-centric expertise to protect Borneo – home to the oldest rain-forests on Earth.”

This is quite true, as I’ve been reading about their work in Borneo. I had no idea that WWF only concentrates on one or two fields per country. Maybe they need to make this more publicly known?

“WWF-Philippines has extensive expertise in marine conservation – ranging from whale shark research to oil spill prevention to Crown-of-Thorns Starfish collection. Bohol is one of our former project sites. The project, which aimed to positively transform coastal communities and management practices through CRM (Coastal Resources Management), has reached completion and is now unfunded. If funding appears, we will be back to continue our work.  “

So this clarifies the areas that WWF have been actively involved in The Philippines. Rather unfortunately it also tells us the reason why this project is no longer running. No funding. However, again rather unfortunately it also confirms to us that the Tarsier does not fall into this category.

“we currently cannot protect Bohol’s Tarsiers because:

1. There is no operational WWF-Philippines office in Bohol.
2. WWF-Philippines sticks to the Pareto Principle by concentrating on the protection of marine resources.”

So that’s the bottom line. The Tarsier is not under any WWF program in The Philippines, and does not seem likely to be in the immediate future. And, the current programs do not have any funding.

This is perhaps not the answer we were hoping for. However I do understand WWF’s position. It’s not possible to protect every animal, endangered or not, on Earth. With limited funding nearly every organization must prioritize. Unfortunately in this case, the Tarsier looses.

WWF did mention that if there was a generous donor out there that might be able to help the program in The Philippines they should contact them.  However, personally I would like to point out that this would seem to be directed at their marine conservation program and not the Tarsier.

So what can be done about the Tarsier. The Philippine Tarsier Foundation Inc is the only organisation that seems to be involved, that I can find, that’s somewhat active in trying to protect the Tarsier. The website really needs to be updated. I did visit the center before writing this post. There was a man and his son running it. I am presuming it was not the owner of the organization. The place was clean, well kept, and they only asked for a small donation in a box.

But, it did seem pretty obvious that funding was needed for it’s continuation, and I have continuously heard rumors of it closing. I would think some personal research would be needed before directly donating.

In conclusion it’s not the update I, nor many others, would have enjoyed to read. However, I do hope that this has highlighted the Tarsier’s plight in The Philippines. From small starts come great things. Maybe, just maybe, someone out there will come across this article and have a solution.

At the most minimum I hope travellers and readers who come across this will note, and understand the following if they plan to visit Bohol in the Philippines.

Do not visit any stores, shops or businesses in Bohol that have Tarsiers on display.

It’s not their natural habitat, and they don’t live for very long this way.

Report these business and people to the authorities straight away. There is an Ordinance in the Philippines that makes displaying Tarsiers in this manner illegal. “The Sangguniang Panlalawigan of Bohol passed Ordinance 015-2008 prohibiting the possession and display of tarsiers in the towns Loay and Loboc, Bohol” – reference from wikipedia

Again, unfortunately this law only applies to Loay, and Loboc. But it’s a start. It might also give you some indication to the bureaucracy in The Philippines in relation to why they did not just outlaw Tarsier possession nationwide. Personally if I saw any caged Tariser in Bohol, I would contact the authorities to inform them. Law’s change, and if it means there’s a potential to protect this endangered animal then that must surely be a good thing.

Finally, I would like to thank everyone that took the time here to comment and email about their concerns. It only takes one person to make a difference, maybe it happened here. Moreover than that, rather than just concentrate on my journey to find home, we’ve picked up on something else.

The future of the Tarsier remains under threat, and unknown. But thanks to everyone here, maybe a few more people have a little more knowledge about the situation. And that might just be the spark that’s needed to help the Tarsiers bright light continue!

Coming Soon:

Mindanao – the southern island in the news for violence, kidnappings and be-headings … guess where I am trying to live now …?

Great food from the Philippines … Maybe … for some!

It was in Palawan at a local eatery that I asked a lady what type of meat was in one particular pot.

“CDO sir,” she replied. “Fresh!”

I looked at her with a confused frown. I’ll spare the translations. It took a good 3 minutes before her frustrations at me not knowing what type of Animal CDO came from forced her back into the kitchen. She emerged with a determined look and a small can.

A can of CDO meat from the Philippines

CDO was indeed a brand name of processed beef. Canned meat is very popular in the Philippines due to it’s long shelf life and lack of refrigeration needs. On this occasion I turned down the stew of CDO as I’m not a fan of canned meat.

Sometime later I saw a can and bought it. The meat is often processed with various types of sauce.  I opened it up, and gagged.

I really thought some almighty bacteria had gotten a hold of it and unleashed the fury of something quite bowel shattering.

A Filipino friend beside me took a sniff an immediately began drooling, then proceeded to devour the cans contents.

Much like the Durian fruit, and the 100’s of dried fish types available I think this type of meat is an acquired taste. After all the millions of Filipinos who enjoy it can’t be wrong.

Coming soon:

One of the most incredible, charming & beautiful things on this planet …