Last of the sunsets by the river in Sauraha & Chitwan

Boatman comes in during sunset on the rapti river in Chitwan

Sunsets by the Rapti river in Sauraha Sauraha is that town beside the huge tourist attraction Chitwan National Park. As such it caters accommodation and tourist services to everyone from 3-4 star guests down to the humble backpacker. And that’s about it. Welcome to my last night in Chitwan. In the evenings there’s not that much to do. Indeed …

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How & why elephants are being bred & trained in Nepal

A mahout trainer feeds his elephant at Sauraha elephant breeding center

Sauraha Elephant Breeding Centre 3km outside Sauraha next to Chitwan National park, Nepal is one of the few large elephant breeding centers in the world. It’s accessible by tour, boat or by walking from Sauraha which is about 3 km. It costs 50 rupees to enter for “foreigners” and 20 for SAARC. I’ve already written about my …

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A better rhino spotting elephant safari in Nepal?

One-horned rhino coming out of the jungle in Chitwan

Seeing wild one-horn rhinos from atop an elephant in Chitwan The secret to a real elephant safari is about being close to nature and melting into the background Following on from my first Elephant jungle safari and learning how not to get cheated: Our route this time was far deeper in the jungle. All the …

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Elephant jungle safari in Chitwan: how to not get cheated

Rhino

An elephant safari is probably the biggest single attraction at Chitwan National Park Come to Chitwan national park to experience an elephant ride into the jungle in search of rhinos, tigers and other wildlife. That’s the sales pitch. And for the most part it’s true. There are elephant rides. It is a part of the …

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Chitwan jungle safari trek with wild rhinos & tiger paws

Elephant grass plains and jungle in Chitwan National Park

Jungle Safari trek in Chitwan during the hot season The first thing that hit me as we left the sunrise over the Rapti river and entered into the Chitwan National Park jungle was that it was still very hot inside the jungle. Normally it’s a shade cooler but with added humidity. In this case the …

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My Chitwan jungle safari: river boat encounter with a crocodile

Guide on a paddle boat going down the Rapti river in Chitwan

Chitwan jungle safari treks come with several options After living in west Africa for several years I’m not overly excited about jungle excursions. I’ve been in Chitwan during hot season which is another problem. I’m here because Africa taught me this is the best time to see wild animals. They should come out to watering holes now. …

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Chitwan National Park tour: coming to terms with package tourism in Sauraha

Tourists queuing for an Elephant ride in Chitwan

Is it possible for an independent traveler to enjoy a package tour town? If you’ve been reading here for a while you’ll know I’m a big fan of independent travel. While many people keep to different standards of “independent travel” my own definition includes no group tours, no follow the leader trails, no “tourist only buses”. The list goes …

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