Bull testicles

Well, nearly every country has them. The Philippines is no exception when it comes to eating testicles. In this case, testicles of the bull or Itlog sa Baka. I will admit here, that I really don’t have a passion for eating internal organs. Just not my thing. I’ll also spare as many male genitalia jokes as possible.

How to find testicle soup in The Philippines:

I discovered “Itlog” quite by accident. In my normal friendly manner I saw some locals around a table eating what looked to be like a soup. My humble question to the type of soup got me the blunt reply -

“Balls … sir.”

A bowl of testicle soup from The Philippines (click to enlarge)

Further inquiries sent the girls at the table into a spluttering mass of giggles as they pointed below my waist and confirmed they were eating bulls testicles. I’ve not seen this dish on offer anywhere.

So 50 pesos later and one of the girls went off to the secret chop house where testicle soup is made. Four days later (slow moving country) and, I had a plastic bag of hot liquid handed to me.

Squeezing it gently, I felt a large oval object slip away in slippery warm fashion. Yes, it seemed I now had a bag of testes in my hands.

A closer look at testicles in The Philippines:

I poured my sopa sa Itlog into a provided bowl and inadvertently splashed myself with goo as a large white object plopped into the bowl. It bobbed up and down in the translucent liquid before slowly settling down.

A few tentative pokes later and much to my disappointment, it turned out the large oval object was in fact an egg.

In The Philippines it seems you can’t have testicles without some egg to go with it. A spoon soon revealed where the meat of the dish was hiding.

The said testicles looked to have come under the tenderizing blows of a hammer, before being knifed to smaller portions.Compulsory male shiver over with I scooped out the remaining slices of bovine manhood for further examination.

Chopped bull testicle is an assortment of white and meaty chunks, tubes, gristle, and fat. I think the photographs below and in the slideshow represent it in far too good a manner. Blow it up to full screen mode for a closer look.

Email subscribers please visit my travel blog page to see the slideshow of testicle images

So what do testicles taste like?

The soup is like a generic any in The Philippines. Watery, and flavored with some sort of stock. Most likely from a packet that includes MSG. As for the taste,  not that bad.

There’s a few sprig’s of green lemon grass leaf, onion, and chili too. As for the meat of the dish? Well, the brown meat is beef like.

As for the white gristle … I asked the girls from the table as I handed them the bowl for further examination and taste testing. It turns out Itlog is a fine dish that’s greatly revered in the Philippines.

One girl had been eating it all her life. Only to discover today exactly what it was made from. She wasn’t very impressed.

Two other girls were too busy consuming to answer.

One guy joined in declaring, in a manly fashion, that “Itlog” was his favorite.

And, the remaining girl mentioned that they were an aphrodisiac. At which time I said my goodbyes and left them to their bowl.

Every country has testicles:

Intestines of all types for consumption are found everywhere in the developing world. Intestines are generally what the animal kingdom goes for first too. The nutrient content is very high, making them a valuable foodstuff.

I think many travelers have some across testicles in one form of another somewhere in the world. Whether they know it or not.

Sometimes a local will be too shy to explain it too you. Sometimes they just don’t know the translated word for something like “testicle”.

It took me awhile to find out that testicle is called Itlog in The Philippines.

I know now what to look out for in other bowls of mysterious meat from around the world!

This is an additional post and one of a series highlighting Food from the Philippines

“Have you found home in the Philippines?”

I’ve received a lot of email from people asking this question, mainly pertaining to the fact that I have been here so long. Let me knock one thing on the head here.

“I lived & traveled in Africa for longer.”

I’ve just written more about it from here due to enhancements in technology, having better electricity, and having access to the internet. Moreover this is not your typical travel blog. This is my life. I am not country hopping trying to rack up a “been to 200+ countries and drank Llama milk in Peru” type of travel blog.

In fact, if you add up the time vs article ratio, Nepal comes up higher.

So why if you are looking for home, have you stayed in one country for so long?

That’s answering one’s own question.

How many people have gone on two week vacations only to come home saying they’d love to move or live there? Quite a few. The reality of doing this is very, very, different.

Method to my madness:

Circle back 15-20 years ago. There was a television series about moving overseas. You’ve seen the type – host follows people to new country and watches them try to start a new life.

Now move forward to about 10 years ago –  A book came out chronicling these people. Only one couple, was still overseas. Everyone else had failed, or decided it wasn’t for them.

Reality on the ground is very different to a television series.

A television series is designed to put a positive spin on things, and hook you in. We all like this, it’s escapism.

Turn on the Travel Channel and you’ll see this in leaps and bounds. Why? Because it sells a dream scenario a lot better than the reality of a news channel.

The Longest Way Home 101:

Learn from others mistakes, and from their successes.

Learn from your own mistakes, and from your own successes.

Get it when & while you can:

Where ever I go next, I might not get the chance to go so in-depth into things such as: Culture, social integration, understanding, bureaucracy, food, living, work, business, discovery e.t.c. All of which leads to a permanent place to live.

None of this is set up to show the world in it’s best light, it’s to show the world in its real light.

“Be it visiting the stunning Alhambra in Spain, or witnessing homelessness due to flash floods in The Philippines”

It’s all a part of the real world that we all live in. I am traveling and documenting it in this way.

So, the Philippines … why so long there …

I chose the Philippines after my overland travel journey linking the Portuguese Atlantic to China’s Pacific coast for several reasons.

Back up photographs, write everything down, write a book, develop this site, see if it could be home and work out where to go next if not.

Along the way, life unfolds and you go further into the depths of discovery.

Travel is one thing, living in a place is another. Trying to find a place called home is the wild card.

I think that I am doing pretty well.

The reason why the Philippines became the de facto Asian country for this part of my journey:

Here are a few reasons why living in the Philippines was a good choice:

• Language – everyone here speaks English. This makes life a lot easier when trying to integrate, and get things done.
• Food – it’s a fish & rice nation, but there’s a lot of meat here too. The latter had me sold.
• Cost – it’s gone up in the last year. But by & large, it’s cheap to live here.
• Communication – it’s also suffered in the last year. But the internet is/was quite accessible here.
• Immigration - it’s a lot more expensive than the rest of SEA, but visas in The Philippines are easy to get. Again, for some reason in the last year visas here have become one if the most expensive in the world.
• Social integration - I needed to do this, I needed to push the cultural boundaries of fitting in. Here I wrote about social integration overseas. You can’t live somewhere without this.
• The people – Filipino’s are friendly. There’s rarely a cross word spoken, and people will talk to you. Baring some areas where they clam up in fear of talking to a stranger.
• Lack of tourists – yes, there is lack of the backpacking, group tours here. Again, remember, this is no average travel journey. I am not able to go out every night for a sit down dinner, drinks, or clubs. Many people don’t get that. Tourists are looking to move on, I am not.

Lessons learned from the past

During my time in Africa I did things differently to here. And, I learned from it. The same can be true for how living in the Philippines has helped me in this journey.

“Tell me the guide book on doing this and I’ll get it. There is none.”

We learn by doing things. We learn from others. And, we learn by answering our own questions.

Once I move on to a new country, I know someone will say:

“You didn’t spend enough time here” or “You didn’t visit this place …”

My answer is simple:

“Even after spending two years in all but the smallest of countries you will never see everything.”

You will always miss this place, person or event. It’s a fact of life. Can a person claim to have visited a country after only spending a day there, sure.

But do they really know the place or does it just look good on paper. The latter.

Conclusion:

What about after two years. Can you really know a country? or how to live there?

A little better than just backpacking around.

How to live in The Philippines, that’s the easy part. How to find home in The Philippines … now that’s a different story.

There may never be another opportunity like this for me. Will I be able to travel, learn, or discover Australia like this? No. Finances make that impossible. That’s the reality.

But what I’ve learned so far, can and will make a place like Australia a lot easier to figure out in a shorter time period. Get it?

As such, what I am learning now is vital to the rest of this journey.

Reality is …

Raw reality is not for the Travel Channel, and that’s okay.

If you want the both the good and bad reality of a life’s journey, or if you want to discover indepth knowledge of a place. You’re looking at the right place, right now.

This is both my, and your, passport to a world of new discovery.

The journey continues …

Coming Soon:

A Tibetan Temple … and realizing when you’ve pushed the boundaries of this journey too far

How many travel related websites are there out there? They nearly all have something in common that we all like: Travel Photography. But just how did that travel photograph come about? And, are its ethics in question?

Over the years I’ve seen the travel photography and travel blogging industry change. And, I believe at the moment, the former is heading into serious trouble.

There was once a time when big commercial photography websites offered financial payment for specific photographs, much like hardcopy magazines. Though a few still do, most now scrape content from stock image sites for huge savings.

There are also another batch of travel / photography related websites that offer up competitions to enter. Some don’t even offer a physical prize, just an offer to name someone as the “best photographer” at the end.

How you lose your photograph by entering some competitions:

The problem here is that by submitting to these sites, one is also, more often than not, surrendering the rights to the photographs themselves. Meaning once you’ve submitted photographs, the website can then use them wherever, and however they feel. Including resell them without any payment whatsoever to the photographer (sample & a full list of companies exceeding copyright permissions, including some big travel / photography companies).

Are their ethics in doubt? Hmm, I would say no. It is after all, a business; and the small print is there. Though the above list also questions the legality of these to a degree, and their rights violations.

It happens in the hardcopy world too. Which brings me to perhaps two of the least talked about aspects of ethics, travel photography and travel blogs.

Photographers paying for photographs:

I’ve met, worked with, and have known quite a few professional photographers and journalists over the years. One of the lesser known aspects of photography that makes my stomach churn a little is the money involved. And, I am not talking about payments to the photographer here.

In various countries I’ve seen both international and local photographers pay for a photograph. We’re not just not talking about handing over 1 USD for a quick shot either.

I am talking about paying a fixer to arrange a local person to be dressed more “locally”, have things moved around for better framing, and have everyone come out at the right time for the best light.

These aren’t serious front page photo shoots either. These are freelance article shots, submission shots, sales and to a lesser extent for personal websites or blogs.

Is this ethics or business?

Prime example of professional photographer ethics:

Here’s an example: Marco Vernaschi is a photojournalist who’s work is funded by the Pulitzer foundation for crises reporting. He used the money to pay a family to exhume their child’s dead body for photographs. (source)

Having lived in West Africa, I found Marco’s work to be disturbing, but very real. Without paying people to do these shots, would the stories ever come to the attention of the world?

Or, is it warping the basic fundamentals of journalism & photography?

What’s right?

Is it ethical in the strictest form to go into a Pakistani market, pay a man to change into something a little less modern? Put some dirt on his face? Arrange his vegetable stall a little and wait until the sun is just right; before photographing him?

“Are we making something up? Or are we helping the world by portraying something that’s going to be more vivid and recognizable?”

Ethics would dictate it’s not right. But maybe it does serve a greater purpose?

What then if it was a professional photo-shoot vs travel blogger hoping to make a name for themselves?

If you are just starting out as a travel-photographer, can you even afford to do this? An aspiring photographer might need to if they ever hope to get it mainstream published these days.

Some of the big players out there can, and do pay. Some even add it to their expense accounts. A fixer comes in handy here for write off’s.

Are they helping to portray something to the world? Or just trying to cash in?

The cash happy amateur photographer:

What’s worse is when there’s a cash happy amateur photographer with a DSLR doing this. They might not have the skill to take a great photograph, but they can sure pay for the right physical setting.

After that they click away and the law of probability says that at least 1 of their 200 shots will be excellent.

I don’t think such a photographer is using good ethics here.

“It’s also not a good feeling if one has the skill, but cannot afford to pay for the “perfect” scene.”

Many will argue that a really great photographer would never need to do this. And, that is very true. But tough times, and competition in a changing industry puts pressure on everyone. Including the pros. And, the ethics of travel photography.

Little by little such stories are leaking out.

As more and more people see money changing hands for the perfect photograph so to does the knowledge about image rights. Thus putting many an amateur travel blogger and photographer into dangerous territory without even knowing it. See my previous article about Travel Blog Ethics.

The Final case on the Future of Travel Photography:

It starts with the argument of editing photographs. Many are disqualified from competitions & media submissions for doing so. But is it not the same thing if you pay to have things put in, or taken out physically?

Today, both media & photography peers condemn photographers and agencies that “photoshop” or alter images to convey a different meaning (source). But rarely, if ever, do you hear about staged or paid for photographs.

Show me the photo money

Money talks. And, the pressure is on. Already big corporations and hotels ban photographers from taking shots of their buildings.

Permits, passes and invitations are now getting more and more prevalent for any type of photography these days. A lot of these things take time, contacts, and money. Something the aspiring photographer must deal with.

Yes, the upcoming photographer can always go to Cambodia and snap a village market. But the photographer with cash, can also pay for the same under perfect lighting, set up and scene conditions.

Who will be more likely to get a contract or sale?

My prediction is that this will get worse.  These things always start small, and grow big. And, it’s happening now in the world of journalism, media and travel photography.

Things to think about:

How do you feel about paying for a photograph to be set up?

Have you ever handed over even $1 and then asked for someone to look more natural? Is this the same thing too?

Is travel photography becoming endangered?

This is an additional editorial featuring travel related articles, view points, conversational topics and helpful resources based on experiences from my journey

How much money does a person from the Philippines earn or make a day?

From the least paid all the way to the president, I took to the streets to try and find out. The results, while holding no scientific nor Wall Street Journal like quality, are interesting nonetheless.

I say per day, as when I ask people on a lower income, this is what they quote me, exactly:

“I make ___ , sir.”

A middle income person is more reluctant, but will quote by the month using the term “around“.

Upper income people usually just smile. But will happily tell you what everyone else makes.

Cost of living in The Philippines (average, local):

Here’s a rough idea of what local things cost so you can see what a wage quote lower down must be spent on:

• Jeepney ride – 10 pesos (medium distance transport)
• Cost of fuel per liter – p45 +


Is it a pregnant lady? Or a case of wealthy male Pinoy belly: It's actually scary to see so many rich Filipinos who are grossly overweight

• Tricycad – city transport - p6 +
• Small bottle of water – p15-20
• Average local meal with meat – p60

60 pesos (p60) = USD$1.31 approx

The reality of wealth distribution in the Philippines:

A village girl or boy brought to a town to work as a house keeper can be paid as little as 0 to 50 pesos per day. They are given accommodation and meals (basic, as in rice and the floor).

Low income earnings:

The average security person man or woman earns p200 per day

The average guest house / hotel cleaner earns 200 pesos per day

A receptionist (starter) earns: p200 – 300 per day

Middle income earnings:

A call center employees earns p10,000 – 18,000 per month

An office administrator earns p10,000 – 20,000 per month

A basic teacher earns p15,000 – 18,000 per month

Note: there are hidden extras in many middle income salaries. Many will also be given a free sack of rice every month, a health care plan and transport. Depending on the job and circumstances.

Upper income:

A doctor earns between p18,000 – 35,000 pesos per month

An airline pilot earns 80- 100,000 pesos per month

Government officials earnings in The Philippines:

Now this was hard to find answers on, I wonder why?

The president earns 40,000 -60,000 pesos per month (everyone laughs when this is mentioned)

A governor earns … ???

The president’s “official” salary was easy to find out. As for a Governor, Mayor or other government officials no one seems to know.

If you happen to know, then please leave a comment (references would be great).

–Update –

One of the great things about having a such a good community of readers here has just revealed itself thanks to the comments of Marnie, see her comments below.

We now know the official salary of a Governor in the Philippines is 28,875 – 34,323 pesos a month. Here are some other scales.

Salaries of Government officials in the Philippines:

President of the Philippines salary is: 57,750

Vice President’s salary is: 46,200 – 54,917

Senator’s salary is: 40,425 -48,052

Congressman’s salary is: 40,425 -48,052

Governor’s salary is: 28,875 – 34,323

Mayor’s salary is: 23,422 – 27,842

(source)

Many thanks to Marnie for finding this list.

—

Note: I can’t help but add in here about the massive fringe benefits politicians get in The Philippines. Not forgetting the wealth of political dynasties, shady business partnerships and corruption the countries politicians have been know for. They are amongst the richest here, one way or another. See further below for an example of a $20,000 steakhouse dinner

Expats & overseas workers:

Diplomats earn the same as their civil service salaries back home, plus hardship bonuses (differs depending on origin country). Least to say, they are far from suffering judging by the luxury apartments/ buildings, most live in.

Non owning manager of a corporate overseas business: $USD 80,000 + per year depending on business. (plus other benefits)

Unqualified expat looking for a job – same as a local, unless you get lucky.

A note on small expat businesses in the Philippines: in order to run a registered business in the Philippines you need to be a national. Foreigners generally (that I am aware of) have two options.

1. Marry a local: in which case the local will own the majority share of the company
2. Form a company whereby the BOD has at least 5 Pinoy members

I’ve seen and heard of many a bad story due to the above.

Equality & fairness in the Philippine salary:

The above is not an official list of salaries by some government body. These are quotes from people either in that job, related to it, from the street or from a news agency and treated as a given average.

What struck me was the salary scale of a call center employee vs a teacher or even a doctor. Call centers are booming in The Philippines, and many graduates would rather work in a call center, rather than in their chosen profession.

Apart that is from those looking to leave the country, via their profession.

Filipinos working overseas:

In my time here I’ve met a staggering amount of Filipinos looking to work overseas. This is actually an industry itself. And no, I am not talking about the return of wealth from overseas workers.

I am talking about the amount of businesses within the Philippines dedicated to getting people jobs overseas. And, to a lesser scale, simply taking the money with idle promises.

Unemployment vs overseas working:

Today’s figures state there about 12 million overseas Filipino workers. The population is around 95 million. That’s roughly about 10% of the population that work overseas.

The unemployment rate is around 8% give or take. How this is actually calculated is beyond me as there’s very to back this up. Living off the land out of necessity and eating nothing but plain rice is considered employed.

Fringe benefits & justice:

Rather than the usual developing country heartache of focusing on people eating nothing but plain rice, children falling asleep due to hunger, or no medical care. I’d like this to highlight the flip side of things.

Whereby some people live very well.

Last year as the Philippines was struggling to cope with the world food crises former President Arroyo spent $15,000 and then another $20,000 on two meals for 60 colleagues whilst visiting the U.S.A. One of which was at a steakhouse where the bill was allegedly footed by a nephew of former president Marcos. The story was reported in many places. Here’s a brief ABS-CBN report.

The follow ups to this were met with non-statements, allegations, rebuttals and the usual “the head of state desires good treatment because …”

Conclusion:

This should give readers a rough insight into how mixed, cumbersome, irrational, fraudulent and bizarre salaries are in The Philippines.

From hand to mouth non earners, to teachers earning less than call center staff to Presidents and their entourages eating $20,000 dinners.

It’s a bizarre scale, and I somehow I don’t think The Philippines is alone in the world in this regard.

And, it would be interesting to see if anyone else can add to this, or disagree with my findings, either in the Philippines, or globally.

I am sure wealth distribution anomalies happen elsewhere too.

Coming Soon:

Documenting my life 101

Plus, a special on bribery within the travel photography community … aka travel photography ethics