Which is better to visit Kathmandu or Pokhara?

If you had to choose between visiting Kathmandu or Pokhara which one is better?

I was asked this a few times over the years. My answer is always the same: it completely depends on what you like! It’s like comparing apples and oranges. Both fruit, but completely different.

The same goes for Nepal’s two premier tourist destinations. They are not alike aside from the word city.

For anyone still uncertain I suggest a quick read of a guidebook or continue reading here. It’s a short post just to let people know the main differences between Kathmandu and Pokhara. So, let’s have some fun with it in a vs match up.

Kathmandu vs. Pokhara: Culture

Kathmandu’s cultural wealth is vast. With the first evidence dating back 30,000 years, the more recent evidence suggests the Licchavi were there in the early 2nd century. Today, the Newari people are accredited to founding the Kathmandu Valley. Those tall pagoda style temples you’ll come across are all Newari built. Most of this took place between 14th to 17th century.

With ethnic and religious blends of Hinduism and Buddhism the Kathmandu valley is open and accepting of all faiths. Being the capital it has become a melting pot for Nepali ethic groups from around the country.

There are few other places in the world, let alone Nepal, that you will find such amazing culture as in Kathmandu!

Pokhara is a surprising late starter to the cultural gate. The city was part of a minor trading route to Tibet and was largely cut off from the rest of the country until the 16th century. It’s only “ancient” temples come from the Newari which you can visit in the Newar Bazar in Pokhara.

In the 1950s Tibetan refugees fled into the Pokhara region from Tibet where they still stay. Many have have children and grandchildren born and raised in Nepal. The Tibetan culture is strong in this area but it’s also become somewhat assimilates with the Nepali way.

Culture winner: Kathmandu.

Kathmandu is the clear winner here. As mentioned above, the cultural heritage found in Kathmandu is some of the best in the world.

Kathmandu vs. Pokhara: Trekking

Kathmandu is located in a vast valley. Over the past 20 years the valley has become urbanized. One look at Boudhanath stupa back in the 1960s standing in a virtual field compared to today as it stands surrounded by buildings and roads tells a lot. Kathmandu still has hill hikes in places like Nagarkot, Dhulikhel or the Shivapuri Trek. All offer distant mountain views on a clear day.

Kathmandu is also the stopping off point for treks like Everest Base Camp, Langtang, or Manaslu treks based on it’s international airport. All these treks are reachable by land or a short flight from the capital.

Pokhara is situated near Phewa Lake and for years had the majestic Annapurna Mountains range as its fabled backdrop. Pollution and haze has taken its toll though. The views are no longer year round. They are there in peak season. The good news is that you can still walk 20 minutes in most directions in Pokhara and be surrounded by forest. A little further and you’ll be up a hill. Further again and you’ll be at places like Sagarkot or further for great sunrise views.

Trekking from Pokhara only has the downside of an arduous 9 hour bus journey from Kathmandu one way. Or a relatively expensive 30 minute flight. So for those short on trekking time, it might be better to stick to a trek near Kathmandu. However, if you have the time, are on a budget, not interested in the Everest bucket list treks then head to Pokhara.

The vast Annapurna mountains can be seen from Pokhara. You are a mornings bus ride away from a trailhead to any number of great treks.

Trekking winner: Pokhara.

Pokhara is the clear winner here unless you are short on time. Trekking in the Annapurna’s is much easier, budget friendly, and generally more pleasant than anything near Kathmandu.

Kathmandu vs. Pokhara: Hotels and Restaurants

This one is going to be close. There is no shortage of either in both cities. Kathmandu has more due to its size. Pokhara has a cleaner feel to it than Kathmandu. In terms of hotel standards Pokhara gets ahead mainly due to the fact that most of the hotels there are less frequented and newer. The price of a hotel in Pokhara is slightly more than Kathmandu though.

For restaurants we veer back to Kathmandu which offers a more diverse selection of restaurants. There’s one major problem though. Hygiene and water supply in Kathmandu can often take its toll on restaurants which can appear to have a grubby way about them. Though during peak seasons this is less of a problem. That said due to food costs restaurants in Kathmandu are cheaper than Pokhara!

Hotels and Restaurants winner: Hotels Pokhara. Restaurants Kathmandu

Hotels in Pokhara feel just a bit cleaner and well kept than Kathmandu. The huge price discrepancy and sheer number of restaurants in Kathmandu gives it the win here.

Kathmandu vs Pokhara: Things to do

At first glance it seems like Kathmandu knocks Pokhara out cold. There’s so much to do in Kathmandu you could spend a week visiting places and still have a long list to tick off. Meanwhile in Pokhara … well, the birds are singing as you look for something to do that isn’t about trekking.

There’s a nightlife in Kathmandu virtually every night with bands playing and nightclubs open till 1am (or later). Restaurants stay open later and bars are easy to find. In Pokhara past 9pm things slow down. There are bars and the odd local nightclub. Or, pay a premium to a Nepali exclusive club.

This is where the oranges and apples come into play. If you like to party it up a little at night Kathmandu does deal a knockout blow to Pokhara. If you like to sleep early with a good book then Pokhara should knock out Kathmandu … but it doesn’t due to excessive dog barking at night. Choose your hotel carefully.

If you are looking to travel around everyday in the Kathmandu valley, enjoying temples and ancient cities then Kathmandu knocks Pokhara out cold. If you like to walk around a lake or take a mountain bike out, Pokhara wins with a better environment.

If you just like to sit and chill and mingle with people then … Kathmandu wins. Sadly Pokhara suffers more from “tourist friendliness” than Kathmandu. Everyone will be your friend and say hello under the expectation you are buying something. Yes, it happens in Kathmandu too, but so much of Kathmandu remains a place where people have lived for centuries. Moreover,  if you can stand the traffic and discover the hidden heritage walks. you’ll truly unearth the rich Newari living heritage of Kathmandu. Only then, will you discover the true friendliness of a curious local wondering what you are doing there. Again, the problem with Pokhara (Lakeside) is that it’s too touristy within a relatively small area, so it’s hard to meet anyone not trying to sell you something. Yes, it can be the same in Kathmandu (Thamel) but in the capital it’s surprisingly easy to meet people from all walks of life and not just tourism.

Things to do winner: Kathmandu.

It’s not a cold knockout. It’s apples and oranges. But, despite the people of Pokhara always claiming their city is better, times have changed. Kathmandu simply offers a lot more to do in general – if only the traffic was better.

Kathmandu vs. Pokhara: Environment

What’s the environment got to do with it? Well, if you’ve read my guidebook to Nepal then you’ll read how tiring traveling around Nepal can be. It can really take the wind out of you. Dust, weather extremes (time of year), traffic and the amazing sensory overload Nepal can give you. Having a good environment can help you relax more on your holiday.

While it is possible to relax in Kathmandu, the constant pollution, car honking, people noise, and dust makes it difficult. The fact that car honking was banned yet it’s still audible tells a lot. The dust is blamed on new roads being built, but it’s been like that for years.

Pokhara on the other hand should be better. And it is. There’s no doubting it wins here. But, times are changing. Traffic is rapidly building up in Pokhara and street hustlers once found only in Kathmandu now ply their trade along Lakeside. What’s more the local administration seem adamant in removing tradition like those long tractor sleds and cows wandering round Lakeside in favor for too many cars, motorbikes, parking everywhere,  bright neon lights and loud music. The mountains that were clear 10 years ago have a haze over them now. Sure, 20 minutes in one direction and you are in a forest or a half day later and you can be in the mountains but, it’s something to consider.

Environmental winner: Pokhara

It was given from the start Pokhara would win this one. What’s not given is the future of Pokhara’s environment. For now, enjoy it.

Kathmandu vs Pokhara: Visiting other places

There’s so much to see and do in Nepal. It’s often important to know how to reach these places. One would think that the capital Kathmandu should be the best place to see all these places from. But the road infrastructure in Nepal is terrible, so every place generally takes longer than it should to reach. That’s where Pokhara comes in.

If you’ve read my itineraries to Nepal you’ll learn that you can easily save time by doing a loop in Nepal when you visit. For Example Kathmandu – Pokhara – Chitwan – Kathmandu. Is the most popular and I nicknamed the golden triangle. It means, you don’t have to take every single journey from Kathmandu. It’s often faster to reach Bardia from Pokhara than Kathmandu as an example. The same with Bandipur. For Lumbini it’s about the same – though coming from Pokhara is more scenic. Coming from Chitwan is even easier. Again, all this is in my guidebook to Nepal.

Kathmandu has also made some age old city planning mistakes when it comes to tourism. They are slowly pushing out their bus and airport locations for example. And yes, my guidebooks are the only guidebooks in the world with these updates (and prices). Couple that with heavy traffic and it’s becoming painful to use Kathmandu as a transport hub for anywhere outside of the Kathmandu valley. Within the valley it obviously wins.

Visiting other places winner: Draw …

Yes, a draw. Kathmandu is losing out due to heavy traffic and constantly moving long-distance bus terminals put from the inner city. Pokhara gains due to less traffic and nearby bus terminals. Use the itineraries in my guidebook to plan out your destinations with ease.

Winner of Kathmandu vs Pokhara: which is better

If you like culture: Kathmandu. If you like nature: Pokhara.

I won’t wimp out on this one and say it’s a draw, there is a winner. But, again, it’s apples and oranges. You really can’t compare.

But, if I had a choice I’d choose Kathmandu as I enjoy the heritage, food, and people of the valley.

I find Pokhara a great for peace and quiet. But it’s very tourism centric unless you stay in Khapaudi (Happy Village) or out in the main city, but there’s not a lot to do in both. As a trekking base, there’s still no beating Pokhara.

My Winner: Kathmandu

There’s just much more to do in Kathmandu. The people make up for a lot. There’s a diverse selection of food, festivals, events, and things to do. If the main city gets too much, then move on over to Bhaktapur which is like stepping into the past. Or, if you want a place quieter than Pokhara there’s Panauti or Dhulikiel.

Again, this is my own personal choice. Apples and Oranges. By all means don’t rule out Pokhara, there are places and things to do in Pokhara that Kathmandu does not have. But for me, there’s no place like Kathmandu.

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