About Dhulikhel
With views of the Himalayas that can match Nagarkot and a classic old Newari town Dhulikhel is a great place to spend a night or two. This hilltop town has a history dating back over five hundred years when it was an important trading route with Tibet. Best of all, it's still off the tourist trail and easy to reach.
Many individuals undertake a full-day trip to Dhulikhel from Kathmandu, but for those seeking a longer stay, it also provides an opportunity for a scenic hill walk the following day for a sunrise view. For the more adventurous, there's even a trail leading all the way to Panauti.
While Dhulikhel can be visited on a day trip, it's worth spending at least one night here to enjoy the exceptional sunrise hike, which is less crowded than other locations.
A visit to Dhulikhel is ideal for those wishing to escape tour groups or crowded sites. Spending an overnight in Dhulikhel offers mountain views comparable to those of Nagarkot, along with a pleasant hill walk and historical temples. It's an excellent choice for budget-conscious travelers or those eager to explore off the beaten path.
Did You Know?
Dhulikhel has had two names in the past. The first was "Dhavalasrotapura," which translates to "the place where tigers play" in Newari. There is, however, another name for Dhulikhel, "Dhalikhyel," which means "curd selling place."
Things to See and Do Around Dhulikhel
You can easily visit Dhulikhel from Kathmandu on an independent day trip, which can include a walk around the old town temples and a hill walk. For sunrises and mountain views, it's better to stay overnight and embark on the sunrise view walk at dawn.
It's straightforward to take a bus to Dhulikhel. All buses to Dhulikhel terminate at the main stop along the Araniko Highway, which is also where they depart for Kathmandu.
There's a turnoff to the main square just past the bus stop. This is convenient if you have luggage and are staying nearby. However, for day trippers, I recommend turning back from the Dhulikhel bus stop and taking the first left. Follow the road down to the magnificent and tall Bhagwati temple. Full details and maps are available in my Nepal guidebooks.
Bhagwati Temple:
The Bhagwati Temple was reconstructed in 1647 CE by King Jagat Malla of Bhaktapur, but there is no record of its original construction date. The temple is one of the tallest in Kathmandu, further enhanced visually by its location on the highest point of the town and on some platforms. The lower roof is decorated with corner curves and small birds standing on them. The upper roof is similar in decoration but is made from gilt copper, and the birds are extremely small.
The temple is dedicated to the goddess Bhagwati, a manifestation of Durga or Parvati, the latter being Shiva’s partner. Across the courtyard, you can see a huge trident. On the stone column next to it is Durga’s mount in the form of a small brass lion, also with a trident.
Narayanthan Temple:
Despite being battered by the 2015 earthquake, the golden three tiers of the Narayan temple dominate this courtyard. In front of the 17th-century temple is one small Vishnu shrine and two columns with the winged Garuda kneeling before Narayan as Krishna.
The temple is often locked and surrounded by a fence to prevent theft of the shrine inside. Gilded birds adorn the roof corners. The courtyard here is often surrounded by locals sitting out in resthouses or tending to small stalls.
Harisiddhi Temple:
Located behind the Narayanthan Temple, this small three-tiered temple can be entered through the little painted archway around the wall. It is dedicated to the goddess Harisiddhi. The origin of Harisiddhi is in India.
The Indian emperor Bikramaditya, founder of “Bikram Sambat,” came to Nepal and brought his beloved goddess Harisiddhi with him.
Dhulikhel Bazaar:
From the Harisiddhi temple, there are several smaller temples along the route to Dhulikhel Bazaar, which strangely lacks any monuments of note. Today, the square is a mix of new and old businesses. At the end of the bazaar is Sarasoti Pokhari, where there is a statue to the goddess of art and knowledge.
In the 1960s, efforts were made to make Dhulikhel a dedicated tourist destination; however, Nagarkot and the main bazaar never took off as a possible souvenir and workshop area.
At the end of the bazaar, along the main street, is the route up 1000 steps to the Dhulikhel hill walk.
A cluster of older residential buildings were demolished in 2022 and replaced with newer buildings that somewhat resemble modern Newari architecture, albeit a bit duller. It's hoped that any further building will be in line with more traditional-looking buildings.
Dhulikhel Mountain Views & Hill Walks
There are two main hill walks and hikes from Dhulikhel. The first departs from the bazaar and leads all the way up to a Kali shrine at the top with stunning views of the Himalayas. The second leads from the shrine all the way to Panauti and is known as the Namobuddha circuit.
Saraswoti to Kali Shrine Hill Walk:
Leaving the main bazaar/Saraswoti pond, continue on the main road. Keep walking until you get to a large junction with a grassy fenced-in area nearby along with a large tree.
Take the path leading to the upper right (not the smaller one further to the right). You’ll soon come to a red-brick archway leading to many steps.
Whether there are 1000 steps or not is questionable (feel free to email me if you counted). There are, however, a lot of steps to the top. At the midpoint, there are gates to Shanti Ban, a large golden Buddha damaged in the 2015 earthquake.
Continue all the way to the top of the steps where a series of dirt trails appear. Continue walking straight ahead just a few steps past the junction and look out on the left for another series of steps just past a small blue hut.
There’s a signpost here pointing the way up the steps to the Kali Shrine or on straight for the Namobuddha trail.
Kali Shrine
The Kali shrine is dedicated to the goddess of time, change, power, and creation. A manifestation of Durga. Shiva is her consort, and you can see his trident in front of the shrine. To the rear of the compound, you will see the viewing platform. From here, views of the Himalayas can be seen on a clear day over the valley below.
Entrance Fees to Dhulikhel
There is no entrance fee to visit Dhulikhel or any of the temples. In 2017-2019, a 100 rupee charge was applicable for going up the hill walk (though this was somewhat random). It is possible to hire a guide in Dhulikhel, and it is best done through your hotel.
Getting to Dhulikhel
There are several transportation methods to Dhulikhel depending on your budget and schedule.
Buses run from Ratna bus park every 15 or so minutes and are the most budget-friendly way to Dhulikhel. Unfortunately, in 2022, Ratna bus park remains under construction, so buses leave from the road outside. It's best to ask bus drivers which departing bus will take you to Dhulikhel. Taxis can be expensive unless you book a two-way trip.If you are short on time or are looking for a private vehicle plus guide to show you around, then taking a private tour is a good option.
Nearby towns worth exploring include Panauti.
Why do all the tour agents say Nagarkot is better than Dhulikhel?
Because there are more hotels and accommodations in Nagarkot who pay them commissions! It's as simple as that.
A few big hotel companies started up in Nagarkot about 10 years ago, and it's been that way ever since. You can read more about the differences between Nagarkot and Dhulikhel here.
Map of Dhulikhel
Full directions to Dhulikhel with maps, guide, hotel, and restaurant reviews are available in my guidebook below.
Restaurants in Dhulikhel
There are not many restaurants outside of guesthouse and hotel restaurants. By Saraswoti pond, there are a group of ever-changing local restaurants of various types and standards.
Pizza Hub Restaurant looks about the best there, but pizzas are very Nepali. Thankfully, there is a menu with local items as well. Opposite there are several typical tourist-type restaurants like Love Bird and Newari Kitchen.
Stick with the basics and keep expectations low. Hotel restaurants are open to everyone and worth a look.
Accommodation in Dhulikhel
There is a broad range of accommodation available in Dhulikhel. The majority of hotels are located near the main road where the bus stop is located and out towards the Kali Shrine. Along here, many refer to themselves as "resorts". Some are genuine, while others are stretching the truth.
In the old city, hotel pickings are very limited and much more along the lines of guesthouses. If Dhulikhel ever picks up popularity similarly to Nagarkot, this area is sure to become full of boutique-style guesthouses.
One thing to be careful of when booking online is that "some" hotels often say they are in Dhulikhel, whereas they are actually nowhere near the town itself.
Dwarika’s Resort is one of the more genuine resorts offering some of the best services and facilities in all of Nepal. You will be pampered and catered to here.
Nawaranga Restaurant & Guest House is a long-running guesthouse which is still standing and the best in the budget range in Dhulikiel. Run by friendly Purna & his wife, they also have a mini art gallery on display. It's located shortly after the Saraswoti Pond.
Panorama View Lodge Resort is located near the Kali Shrine with stunning views of the Himalayan mountains. While the rooms are nothing special (dated), the views on a clear day are. Due to this alone, it’s worth checking out.
More accommodation and maps showing their locations can be found in my guidebook to Nepal.
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