How to Hire a Guide in Nepal?

How I did it. It might help you too!

Before I even arrived in Nepal I was worried about both trekking and finding the right guide. My problems were the following:
(clicking on a heading will take you to that section)

I was alone, where to start?
Where to go on the trek?
Who to Believe?
The cost?
How to choose the right guide?
A Guide or a Porter?
As a woman, is it safe?
Trekking with the guide?

I was alone, where to start? (link to top)
This was an issue as I had been told I would meet up with plenty of people in Nepal. Eventually I did, but at the start when I arrived in Pokhara there were few people around. So I was at the mercy of agency's, hotels and touts.
So I spent a week canvassing all the hotels, agencies and personal guides out there. Here's what I found out, it might save you some time.

(1) Hotels and Agencies charge commissions for guides, so the price of a guide is greater going through them.
(2) The average cost was $USD 15-20 per day for a trekking guide
(3) When I asked if I could join another group an agency had going, I was told yes. But they did not know the numbers going until a day before they left. Meaning I did not know whether I would be sharing the cost of a guide with 2 people or 5.
(4) Most agencies had a 1-5 guide to trekker ratio.
(5) All Agencies claimed their guides were covered with insurance.
(6) Trekking permits were included in some prices, not in others
(7) Some agencies had all inclusive packages, hotels, food etc. These started at a scary $USD550 and up fee for the Annapurna Circuit.
(8) There was little difference in hiring a guide from a hotel, or agency other than the cost
(9) Hiring a guide without going through an agency started at around $USD10 per day, so with more than one person, the cost could be split.
(10) Pokhara is a much better place than Kathmandu to find a trekking guide. Most treks start from Pokhara and not KTM.

Where to go on the trek? (link to top)
This was easier to decide once I got to Nepal. After one or two sit downs with agencies and asking them to suggest places based on my time frame I had a better idea. Also some good online photo galleries showed me what to expect. I chose the Annapurna Circuit.

Who to Believe? (link to top)
I had so much advice from online articles and forums I was a bit boggled with the information. Once you know how many days you have is a good starting point. After that pick a trek. Then question the guide and agency about it, what you will see etc. Before you go it helps to ask about trek conditions etc. I don't believe everything I read on online forums as personal feelings often get in the way. At least here you know its my personal experience ;-)

The cost? (link to top)
Let me start off my clearing up one pet peeve I have. Booking a guide/trek online is incredibly expensive. I know one person who was quoted $500 for a 6 day Poon Hill trek. Included was a luxury tourist bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. 3 Star Hotel in KTM and Pokhara. Expert guide fully insured, Maps included, quality Guest houses on the trek. (they sometimes throw in meals too).

Let me break that down to reality folks.
(1) Pokhara to KTM one way on Greenline Bus $15 including lunch and water.
(2) 3 Star hotel in KTM and Pokhara $7-12 USD (everyone's a 3 star by the way;-))
(3) Cost of guide - lets say $USD 17 per day
(4) Cost of trek guesthouse $USD 5-6 tops, depending on season. It can be as low as $2
(5) Meals Dhal Bhat $1-2, Steaks etc $6 +
(6) Map 100 rps

Now you can do the math. For some its convenience that makes booking online better, and that's fine. For others you might want to re think due to costs. One important thing to note when booking online is that you don't get to choose your guide!

How to choose the right guide? (link to top)
Interview at least 3 guides, whether they be independents, or from an agency. Remember, you will be with this person from anywhere between 3 - 25 days!
Suggested questions to ask and confirm:
(1) Agree on the route
(2) Agree on the price
(3) Agree on the need for porters and who's responsible for them before hand
(4) Agree that you will make the final decision on guesthouse to stay at en route.
(5) Ask how many times the guide has done the trek?
(6) Do they have a family? What do they do aside from Guiding - in other words try to get to know them a bit better personally
(7) Agree about who pays for what en route?
(8) Confirm they are registered guides, and are insured
(9) Ask them if they will be drinking alcohol on the trek (in other words find out if this could be an issue)
(10) Confirm that your guide will be paying for his own food and accommodation
(11) Reconfirm the finances
(12) Ask yourself if are you totally happy, and comfortable with the guide?

A Guide or a Porter? (link to top)
First the difference:
(1) A guide should speak good english and be able to tell you about the places you pass though. They can arrange accommodation and negotiate with tea houses and eateries for you.
(2) A Porter carries your equipment for you, and no more. They don't often speak any english. Most can carry two backpacks that they will strap together. But, it's very important you do not take advantage of the porter. They are usually very proud people, and will attempt to carry things that are just too heavy. Which is not good.
(3) I would recommend leaving heavy bags at your hotel, rather than hiring a porter specifically for carrying things you will not need on the trek. That said if you plan on carrying camera equipment such as SLR's and tripod, having a porter can be a great help to free you up.
(4) There are porter/guides too. A trainee guide if you will. They have been porters and are now nearly full guides but may still be working on English, or building their hours up on the trekking routes. They will carry a little less than a full porter.

As a woman, is it safe? (link to top)
Many women go trekking in Nepal, both in groups and solo. It's important that you feel comfortable with your guide. The majority of guides are male. However there are some agencies with female only guides and porters that you might want to consider if you are not comfortable with a male guide.

Trekking with the guide? (link to top)
In relation to the guide on the trek it depends what you agreed at the start.
(1) They can help get you a trekking permit before you leave
(2) Generally guides will not carry anything for you, but will usually carry a light coat if you get stuck
(3) They do get commission from guesthouses and so on, and yes they pay much lower rates than you for accommodation and food. Considering the annual wage in Nepal, this is not much
(4) The cost of food and water goes up the higher your altitude, as it takes more effort to move things up there!
(5) It's up to you to be sure you are prepared with adequate clothing, equipment and physical ability. While your guide can offer help, it's still your trek!

Recommendations: I will not be listing any guide names here (if you are stuck, see below). Keep in mind that contacting guides from overseas is tough. The internet in Nepal in slow, and unpredictable as are the phone lines. They are also often away on treks, and not able to communicate during that time. While most guide speak good english, written english might be difficult for them. If you have all your gear, you can generally be good to go in 2 days. For more information on Nepal check out my nepal information page.

If you are seriously stuck or interested in the guide I used you can contact me. He was 100% genuine, honest, had great experience of the land and became the envy of several other trekkers I met.

Please keep in mind all the above is based on my own personal experience in Nepal. It's not intended to be a guide. If the information here can help you on your own travels then that's a good thing!

Nepalese Porter