I thought that I would just come and see too many tourists and do some trekking. Instead I was hit on the side of the head with an incredible country relatively devoid of tourists that brought me one step closer to finding home. Information here is based on my personal travel & research- updated: (Dec 2011)
(click on a topic heading to skip to that section)
» Memorable places in Nepal
» Ways into Nepal
» Nepalese Food
» The Nepalese People
» The Nepalese Language
» Do's & Do not's
» Places to stay
» Potential for home?
» FAQ's on Nepal
: The border towns with India, grab your visas on entry and head on in.
- A few passport photos, and that's about it. Easy and one of the friendliest welcomes I have had. .
- It doesn't matter which side you stay if you have to over night it here. There's not much on offer in either case. I would stay wherever the old visa was to save days on the new.
: As close to a beach paradise as it gets, without a beach.
- A lake that provides a mirror like reflection of the Annapurna mountain range. Go at pre dawn on a boat for this. Take a rowing boat out for the day, or hire a row man to take you around.
- In the mountainous hill above Lake Phewa is the world peace stupa. Spend 40 minutes climbing up, and take the rest of the day to enjoy the views and trek around the area. Head off to the left or right for mountains and prayer flags. Or over the other side to the local village. If there is a group of you, stay for sunset, it's great. If alone, be careful as it gets dark fast and you open to muggers in this area.
- Not going trekking, want great mountain photographs, go here. The predawn taxi will take you to the top. If dawn is at 5am, then leave at 4am to get a good position for photos. Taxi should cost 800 rupees max for the whole trip.
- Even if your not into mountaineering it's worth going just for the photography.
: Not my type of place. But a lot of people seem to like the underground water falls.
: They may have been at one point, and possibly still are. But now they are very touristy. $175 carpet anyone? For real Tibetan villages, befriend a local Tibetan tout, and head off with them into on the local buses. It's worth the few dollars tip, just set a price first and stick to it.- $85 USD buys you 30 minutes in sky. I am told this is quite cheap my most standard. Nice to watch from the ground. The parahawking involves you in tandem with the instructor following the thermals of a hawk.
- $125 USD buys your about 20 minutes in a micro flight at dawn to see the sunrise. Above my price range, but I heard good things about the view.
- If you want to see something out of the ordinary go here. I will write up a travelogue about it in stories. Picture an indiana jones scene of slavery on a river bed. - Stroll up and down this tranquil main road, and take in all the fake trekking stores while listening to Buddhist chants. - Walk or take a local bus to the real Pokhara and laugh at the tourists back at lakeside spend triple on phone calls, internet and food.
: Mountain, vistas and treks like no other place.
- If a vote for the best trek in Nepal was taken, this would come out tops. Spend a month, the typical 21 days, or a record breaking 10 days on this magnificent circuit that covers a top height of 5416 meters. I've written a travelogue about my own trek here.
- 11 days will take you to the annapurna base camp at 4130 meters to stand at the foot of an incredible mountain range. The trek there does not have great views, but once there it's good. - There are lot of short 1-5 day treks in this region. From Poon Hill, to Tatopani and the Royal Walk.
: The big Capital of Nepal. A true ancient looking city that you can has all the hustle and bustle you missed in India.
- At the heart of Kathmandu is this living square of temples and ancient buildings. You could spend many an afternoon here watching the world go buy.
- The Monkey temple, and yes there are plenty. The staircase can be slippery so watch out.
- Giant Stupa with allegedly the bones of Buddha buried underneath, visit the temples around here too..
- Burning Ghats, temples, face painted Sadu's and more characters than your camera can handle. Dawn is good time to arrive.- All around the Kathmandu valley are monasteries. Visiting one is not a problem, and worth it for a tour. .
- The central tourist area. Trekking stores, restaurants, cafes, book stores the works. Not to mention touts, beggars and lots of human traffic.
- If you want to see the real Kathmandu, head here. A jam packed intersection with electronic and jeweler stores galore.
The royal national park
- Elephant and tiger spotting. The elephant won't be a problem. The tiger is a 50/50 thing. - Grab your bathing gear and get scrubbing an elephant. - Want to help the environment around here, there's also plenty to do. Just don't fall into the clutches of a wealthy NGO.
From India the easiest crossing is Sunali and I have covered that both in the India section and visa section. To move on into China/Tibet overland you will need a Tibetan permit also covered in my visa section.
Flying into Nepal can be expensive. But there are relatively cheap options if you look for them. Delhi is has regular flights for about $200 USD and Bangkok for $250.
Please see FAQ's for information on airport departure tax.
You can get just about anything in the world in Pokhara and Kathmandu. The Nepalese know how to cook food from around the world. Giant steaks, pizza, pastas and chinese are easy to come across. Though the mexican dishes are a little strange.
Dhal Bhat is the Nepalese staple dish. You can get it vegetarian, or with meat, and I seriously like it. I am not a fan of rice, but in this dish its good. What's best is that its cheap, and second servings are free. Momo's are seriously good steamed pastry meals, but you might need a second helping!
Try Tibetan beer for something a little different. It's served warm, and is fermenting away in front of you with a straw.
There are two sides here. Generally speaking the Nepalese are some of the nicest, helpful people in the world. You will get the bad eggs, and the touts are annoying.
But the Nepalese know you better than you think. Tourism is their number one industry and they know what people from each country likes. Tell them your nationality, and watch them adapt. That said, keep in mind tourism is their livelihood, and over the last few years the political situation has changed dramatically in this country and is still not quite there.
It's hard mainly because so many people speak english. But if you are in a situation where you can learn it. It's very doable.
Do respect the culture of the people. Do not get drunk on the streets of Thamel - it happens, and people will take advantage. Do eat everything on offer, some of it is fantastic. Do try to go trekking. Do try to speak with the students. Do not give money or prepackaged food to the street children they will use it to by glue.
Finding a hostel is a thing of the past, cheap hotels are all over the place. There are so many hotels and guesthouses in Pokhara its easy. This one offered superior rooms at a good price and the staff were great. They will pick you up at the bus station or airport for free.
- - Run by a local lady and her french husband this is a star amongst the plentiful supply of KTM guesthouses. Within 4 minutes walk of Thamel, and just outside of Thamel to get away from the rush. Excellent food, entertainment and a safe haven. A taxi from the airport to here is about 500 rupees.
Well of all the places in my journey Nepal gave me that deep feeling that reached out and said this could be home. Find a niche market like the para gliders did, and you could live here. Aside that is from the political instability at the moment, one of worst economies in the world, a country on the brink of natural disaster and an already over populated tourist industry. It would be tough to make a living here.
How much is a daily budget?
One of the last bastions of true budget travel destinations. In truth Nepal can can be as expensive as you want or as cheap. You can stay in a 5 star hotel for $120 USD a night, and be driven around in a private car for $30 USD. Or your can get a private room for $5USD and go public for $1. If you avoid the tourist restaurants and entrance sees you can spend a day here for $12USD (eating good food in local places). But the thing with Nepal is that there is so much to do. $20 with local transport to city sites with some entrance fees. The above is based on a low budget, you can spend a lot more per day depending on your needs.
How to save money in Nepal?
Do not buy an expensive package tour unless you have the money to waste and/or literally do not have a day to spare. I came across people who had spent $5,000USD for a 10 day stay in Nepal. Yes they had everything taken care for them. But they also did not get to choose there, guide for a 3 day trek, stayed in an out of the way 5 star hotel and were fairly isolated. It was too much money by far.
Hiring a guide form overseas on the internet is a waste of money and not practical. There are so many guides in Nepal even in the height of tourist season there are still too many. The streets are full of guide offices. Have a read of my article on hiring a trekking guide in nepal for more information.
When you buy you pass to Durbar Square, head off to the tourist office there straight away, and for free get a pass to the square for as long as you visa lasts. Keep in mind Durbar square is in the middle of KTM so you will have to pass through plenty of times.
This place has been seized by UNESCO and local government and the so the entrance fee is ridiculous compared to the rest of Nepal. Thankfully there are many many side streets you can meander down off the main entrance area to avoid buying a ticket. Stay clear of these little side streets later as they have guards asking to see your tickets. If they lowered the prices it would be better.
Thamel and Lakeside are two popular places for expensive (albeit great) dining. Walk a little further and enter a good, local place. A bowl of chicken soup, plate of momo and a coke will cost about $1.50. A buff steak $3.00. Chow Mien $.75. Head to Everest Steakhouse and its $8 for a steak.
The problem comes when you are socializing and head out to eat. Most will head to a nice place, and want to split the cost of the meal within the group, and bang there goes your budget!
Likewise with beer such as Nepal Ice or Everest, it's 3 USD on average in most restaurants for a litre bottle.
What are the Banks/ATM's like in Nepal?
Never had a problem bar from power outages. Be sure to ask your hotel/guesthouse for the electrical outage times before heading off. Most banks have generators but not all work that well, and I have heard of a few travelers getting their cards stuck due to this. The ones in Thamel are fine, and in Pokhara.
Banks are open Sunday though to Friday Lunchtime.
If you are going trekking be sure to stock up on your smaller Nepalese notes as ATM's usually only dispense big ones. Guesthouses, and eateries usually will struggle for change in remoter areas.
What time is it in Nepal?
Nepal is 15 minutes ahead of Indian Standard Time and 5 hours 45 minutes ahead of GMT
Electricity in Nepal?
Nepalese Electricity is 230AC V. There are frequent power outages, but they are time tabled. And, your hotel should have this timetable! November to March is particularly bad, as is June-July.
The standard socket is a two pin socket and many local stores sell adapters. It's advised that any important equipment be protected by a surge protector or the like.
What guide book?
Lonely Planet's Nepal is again useless for the overland traveler coming across borders. Little information is given. For Kathmandu the book is good. But for Pokhara it's map is bad and they say little. For trekking its another disgrace of a guide book. Going into the trek stores will give you a better idea, as will a quick internet search. It has a nice cover though.
See my links in the upper right corner for overland travel guides in and out of Nepal.
How to hire a guide?
Firstly don't do it over the internet. There are plenty of guides in Nepal even in tourist season. Tours around Nepal, or trekking tours can be arranged quickly this way. Secondly if you want to go to the Annapurna region get your guide in Pokhara. If you want to go to Everest arrange from Kathmandu, doing it the other way round will be expensive. Interview at least three guides as if hiring them for a job at your workplace. Personality is important, remember you will be with this guide for possibly 3 weeks! There are female guides available. Arrange the payment before you shake on it. The costs of an in dependant guide are from $10 USD per day to $15+ USD per day. From an agency add on $5USD, a porter is a little under half of those costs. I hope to write up a trekking in Nepal section soon which will go into this in more detail. For more information check out my full page on How to hire a Guide in Nepal
How to buy trekking gear in Nepal?
If you have trekking gear, have the luggage space and are only visiting Nepal for trekking then fine bring it. Otherwise buy it there.
The best place for ease of selection and price is Pokhara, and not Kathmandu. Let's take an all weather North Face Jacket listed at $300 online retailers as an example. You will find the real thing in the North Face store in KTM. It will be a slightly lower price than the USA or Europe.
In the downtown KTM trekking stores there are 3 categories. Fakes (China), copies of fakes (Nepal made) and Nepalese copies. Avoid Nepalese copies. They are easy to spot with bad logo copies, and poor stitching.
And, stitching is key to the others. Examine the jacket carefully, and pull at the seams. If there is any give at all, put it away. Turn the pockets inside out and examine them. Any bad shapes and poor stitching is easily seen here. You should be able to walk away with a good quality heavy jacket (Nepal copy) for $30 or China Copy for $40-$50. The only thing I would not buy are trekking shoes. They are dirt cheap, look nice, but glued. They will fall apart in a few weeks.
If you really are worried about buying fake trekking gear in Nepal. Then head to The North Face Store opposite Fire & Ice in Thamel. They have a huge range of quality stock.
Ask for the manager Sabina, she's a walking encyclopedia of both trekking gear, and serious expedition gear. She's also very honest, and won't steer you wrong. What's more, if you mention that you heard about her through The Longest Way Home, it might get you some discount there! :)
How to deal with stomach problems in Nepal?
Trekking means staying in lodges. While the food is great in these places. There is a chance you will come away with something on prolonged treks. Especially if you in the off season. Giardia is possibly one of the biggest things to look out for, and thankfully fairly easy to treat. A bad stomach for a day or two should pass by. Any thing lasting longer, you should seek proper medical advise. Check out my own medical woes list here.
Camera's and Internet in Nepal, anything to know?
Fake memory cards are a big problem as is the cost of buying them. Head down to New Road in Kathmandu to buy and test the cards at a reduced cost to Thamel.
Cyber cafe's are everywhere in Nepal. But they are slow, and full of viruses. Be sure to backup all your photo's and personal data before plugging you memory card, flash disk or external Hard Drive into any public computer. It may be a better option just to buy another memory card.
WIFI is starting to appear, but again slow. Try to test it's speed out before investing in an expensive coffee or meal. Pokhara has some good places to eat and use WIFI, but again test it first, and beware of the when the power goes out!
Volunteering in Nepal, anything to know?
There are plenty of opportunities to Volunteer in Nepal. Personally I am very much against these pay $1000 to volunteer time positions. Call in something else, it's not volunteering, it's paying to work. That said some of the charges are pathetically high. Some people pay $4000 for 6 weeks volunteering at an NGO. I have written about this in a travelogue here (NGO's in Nepal). The best thing to do is just arrive. Go and see a place for yourself. There are so many people looking for volunteers, and they provide free accommodation and basic food. It's easy to find a position like this, and it these days it probably helps more than lining the pockets of an overpriced 'Volunteer Agency.'
Departure Tax?
There is a 1130 rps Departure Tax plus 565 rps tourism service fee added on making a total payable of 1695 rps. This should be paid in Nepalese Rupees only! If your are flying to India or other SAARC countries the total is 1356 rps.
There is also a 200 rps departure tax for internal flights.
Should I leave a tip in Nepal?
In 2008 Nepal introduced a 10% service charge. If this is included in restaurants then I would not leave a tip. Nepal is not North America, the native culture here is not to tip. For guides and porters if you feel their service has been above and beyond, then adding 10% - 15% is about right. Again, it's not compulsory and although everyone likes to receive, its not in the culture. Doing so changes this for the worse as I've seen in many countries.
Visas in Nepal?
On arrival you can get a 15 day or 30 day or 90 visa. There used to by a 60, but, no more. To extend this visa, ignore all agencies and head to immigration in Kathmandu, or Pokhara, fill a form before 12 noon, and collect your 30 day extension by 2pm. Very easy. You can stay up to 150 days in Nepal per year January to December, meaning if you arrive in July ...
|
