The Himalayas Are Still There: Debunking the BBC’s Hazy Himalayan Hype
I have been traveling, living, and writing about Nepal for over two decades, trekking its trails, tasting high-altitude coffee in Kathmandu’s bustling Thamel, and staring in awe at the jagged, snow-draped Himalayas from mountain peaks. So when I stumbled across a recent BBC article (source) claiming the mighty Himalayas are “getting harder and harder to see” due to haze and pollution, I raised an eyebrow. The piece, penned by an environment correspondent, paints a dramatic picture of vanishing mountain views, disappointed tourists, and a trekking industry on its knees. But as someone who’s been on the ground, I’m calling this out for what it is: clickbait with more holes than a yak’s wool sweater.
Let’s unpack this, shall we? I’m not denying air pollution or climate challenges in Nepal: those are real. But the narrative that the Himalayas are practically invisible now, even during peak seasons, is wildly exaggerated. Here’s my take on Himalayas visibility in Nepal, grounded in experience, not hype.
The Kathmandu Mountain Myth
The article kicks off with a nostalgic claim about seeing the Himalayas from Kathmandu’s city streets. Look, I have spent countless days wandering Kathmandu, from the narrow alleys of Ason to the rooftops of Patan. I have a dedicated heritage book that covers places few have ever seen, all the way to the tallest temple. The idea that you could casually gaze at Everest or Annapurna from the capital is a stretch, and it has been for decades. Urban sprawl, buildings, weather, and distance, mean the mountains are rarely visible from the city itself. On a crystal-clear day, post-monsoon in October or November: but more likely in the depths of winter, you might catch a glimpse of distant peaks from Patan’s higher spots or a rooftop in Boudha. But this isn’t new, and it’s not pollution’s direct fault; it’s geography.
Want to see the Himalayas? Get out of Kathmandu. Head to Dhulikhel, a short drive east, where on a clear winter’s day (October to February), the views are jaw-dropping. Or book a mountain flight for a front-row seat to Everest. That’s all without trekking. The article’s lament about not seeing mountains from a Kathmandu hotel is baffling. No hotel in the city has ever marketed itself as a Himalayan viewpoint, and if they did, they’re selling snake oil. This sets the tone for the piece: dramatic but disconnected from reality.
Haze, Fires, and the Springtime Scapegoat
The BBC points to “severe air pollution” and haze as the main culprits obscuring the Himalayas, even during the spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) seasons, which are traditionally clear. Let’s break this down.
Haze in spring is real, but it’s not some new phenomenon. Across Nepal, India, Pakistan, and indeed much of Asia, farmers burn grass and crop residue in the dry season to prevent uncontrolled forest fires later. These controlled burns create smoke, which can linger as haze, especially at lower altitudes. This isn’t unique to Nepal: it’s a regional issue across Asia. I’ve seen it in Pokhara, where locals once pointed fingers at India, conveniently ignoring their own fires nearby. Is it ideal? No. Does it blanket the Himalayas year-round? Absolutely not.
The article claims haze is now so bad that even spring and autumn are ruined. That’s a stretch. Mid-October to mid-December is Nepal’s golden window—post-monsoon, pre-winter. Skies are typically blue, and above 4,000 meters, you’re almost guaranteed epic views, if the weather cooperates. March to May can be hazier due to fires, but it’s not a write-off. I’ve trekked the Annapurna Circuit in April and seen Poon Hill light up with sunrise over Dhaulagiri. The key? Altitude and timing. Below 4,000 meters, haze can be an issue in spring, but climb higher, and you’re above it.
The piece also mentions a flight circling Kathmandu’s airport 20 times due to hazy weather. Congestion at Tribhuvan International Airport is infamous, exacerbated by ongoing repairs and outdated radar. Delays and circling have been a fact of life at the airport for over a decade, haze or no haze. Try landing during monsoon season! Blaming it solely on pollution is lazy.
Nagarkot and Annapurna: Misplaced Expectations
The article cites Nagarkot, a hill station near Kathmandu, as a prime example of haze-ruined views. I’ll be blunt: Nagarkot has never been a stellar Himalayan viewpoint. Decades ago, guidebooks like Lonely Planet hyped it up, and tourists bought the myth. Even on a clear day, you’re not seeing Everest without binoculars along with some imagination, and the other “spectacular” peaks are distant at best. A local hotelier quoted in the piece says he’s stopped marketing Nagarkot for sunrise and Himalayan views, focusing on history and culture instead. Smart move, but this isn’t news: Nagarkot’s reputation as a mountain vantage point was always overstated. I’ve written about this in my guidebook to Nepal over 10 years ago and given better alternatives than the tourist trap of Nagarkot.
Then there’s the Annapurna region, where the writer claims they “had hardly any luck” seeing peaks during a trek. The Annapurna region is vast, from Pokhara’s Sarangkot to the high passes of Thorong La. Without context—where exactly were they trekking? This is meaningless. Sarangkot, the concrete-heavy viewpoint near Pokhara, isn’t prime for Himalayan vistas. But on a trek like Annapurna Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit, haze is rarely an issue above 3,500 meters, especially in October or November. If clouds rolled in, that’s weather, not pollution. I’ve lost count of trekkers who’ve had bad luck with clouds one day and postcard-perfect views the next. That’s mountain life!
The Trekking Industry’s “Crisis”
The BBC quotes a trekking guide claiming a 40% business drop due to hazy conditions, even mentioning compensating trekkers for not seeing mountains. I’ve been in Nepal’s trekking scene long enough to call this dubious. A 40% drop? Let’s talk real factors: the 2023 ban on independent trekking by the Nepal Tourism Board and Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN), skyrocketing costs, and a string of plane crashes haven’t exactly screamed “book your trek now.” Blaming haze alone is absurd.
As for compensating trekkers for weather? I’ve never heard of a reputable agency doing this. Weather is unpredictable: always has been. If you’re promised a guaranteed view of Annapurna, you’re being scammed, not compensated. The article also cites a trekking official saying operators are “depressed” and considering career changes. Hyperbole aside, the industry faces challenges, but haze isn’t the apocalypse. Trekkers still flock to Nepal, and those who research their trips, choosing the right season and altitude—rarely leave disappointed. All the same, it can happen, just like anywhere in the world when out of 365 days in a year you are only there for 14. You take a risk with weather whenever you go on holiday. You mitigate it by going at a time of year when it’s historically rain or cloud free, but it’s still no guarantee … anywhere in the world. Nepal just happens to be on the roof of the world and has fairly dependable weather patterns.
The Bigger Picture: Pollution, Climate, and Reality
Let’s not sugarcoat it: air pollution is a problem in South Asia. Cities like Kathmandu, Delhi, and Lahore regularly rank among the world’s most polluted. Vehicle emissions, construction dust, and open waste burning contribute year-round. Grass fires, as I mentioned, add to the spring haze. Climate change is extending dry seasons, which can worsen conditions. The BBC cites Pokhara’s airport recording 168 hazy days in 2024, up from 23 in 2020. I’d take that data with a grain of salt: Nepal’s weather stations aren’t exactly cutting-edge, and Pokhara’s new airport has its own issues, like lacking radar for wide-body jets, hills blocking radar, etc. Weather stations in the mountains … dream on. Most weather patterns in the mountains are calculated based on satellite imagery coming from India.
To claim the Himalayas are now only visible in “photographs, paintings, and postcards” is pure drama. I was in Langtang last November, and the peaks were so clear I could’ve counted the crevasses. Above 4,000 meters in the first season, haze is rarely a factor, and even at lower altitudes, the post-monsoon season delivers. If the weather is cloudy … it’s the weather and bad luck. There’s a difference. The article’s doom-and-gloom ignores the reality: Nepal’s peak seasons (mid-September to mid-December, and to a lesser extent, Late March to May) still offer some of the world’s best mountain views, if the weather cooperates. Which in Nepal, it generally does.
There are no guarantees with the weather … bad guidebooks, marketing hype, and promotional blather have risen expectations for mountain views into near guarantees – it simply never has been the case – the fires? It’s been going on for decades – mix them with no wind (weather) and yes there can be a problem. But, again, it’s been that way for decades across Asia, not just in Nepal.
So, What’s the Deal with Trekking in Nepal?
This BBC piece is a classic case of sensationalism over substance. It takes real issues: pollution, climate change, and seasonal haze, and spins them into a narrative that the Himalayas are vanishing. The truth? They’re still there, as majestic as ever. Here’s my advice for travelers:
Practical Tips for Trekkers
- Time it right: Mid-September to mid-December is your best bet for clear skies. March to May can work, but expect some haze at lower altitudes. Check out the best time to visit Nepal.
- Go high: Above 4,000 meters, haze is minimal. Treks like Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit deliver. Need to know what treks go over 4,000 meters?
- Skip the hype spots: Low-altitude peak season – Nagarkot and Sarangkot are overrated. Try Dhulikhel or a mountain flight for better views.
- Manage expectations: Weather is unpredictable everywhere, from Nepal to New York. No one guarantees blue skies, and if they do, they’re lying.
- Support solutions: Grass fires are a regional issue. Advocate for better fire management and environmental management, not just in Nepal but across Asia. Why are North America and Europe implementing campfire bans, coal bans, and all sorts of pollution bans on the public when across Asia new coal power plants are opening, rubbish zones burn, recycling is nearly non-existent, diesel generators generate electricity, and grass fires are lit?
Pollution is a global challenge, and Nepal’s doing better than many. Hydropower dominates its electricity, and electric vehicle sales are climbing. Grass fires remain a problem, but they’re controlled to prevent worse forest fires. Science needs to step up with solutions, not just for Nepal but for the world.
Final Thoughts
The Himalayas aren’t going anywhere, and neither is Nepal’s allure for trekkers and adventurers. The BBC’s article is a well-meaning but misleading mix of half-truths and hyperbole, leaning on outdated guidebook myths and vague anecdotes. As someone who’s trekked Nepal’s trails for years, I can tell you the views are still there: provided you know when and where to look.
Want more trekking tips? Check out my Trekking in Nepal Guidebook for insider advice!
Don’t let clickbait scare you off. Do your research, pack your boots, and chase those peaks. The Himalayas are waiting, haze or no haze.
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