What’s the Pikey Peak Trek?
I’d heard of Pikey Peak before, but never gave it much thought. By name alone, it seemed like one of those “Peak Treks” or expedition treks. It couldn’t be further from the truth. The Pikey Peak Trek is an “easy to moderate” trek in the lower Everest region, with views of both Everest and Annapurna mountain ranges.
Wait, what? You could see both Everest and the Annapurna mountain ranges? I thought that was reserved if you climbed to the top of some big mountain. Apparently not. Sir Edmund Hillary apparently said the views from Pikey Peak were “the finest in all of Nepal”. Now, before we all go gasping at such a claim, the quote is out of context. Sir Edmund was talking about short, relatively easy treks. But naturally, the tour operators left out that bit.
No, the views are not the best in all Nepal. Aside from being a relative experience, Pikey Peak’s views are probably one of the best for a short trek with panoramic views of all the mountains. Spoiler! Yes, they are pretty good alright. And it’s not a “Peak Trek” as such. More of a Poon Hill style trek but with much better views.
Okay, then. Let’s get trekking.
Why I chose the Pikey Peak Trek?
Because I hadn’t done it yet. Plus, lots of people were talking about it and asking about it. I liked the idea of seeing both the Annapurna and Everest mountain ranges. Lots of people ask “Where in Nepal can I see Everest from?“. I break a lot of dreams and hearts by saying “not Nagarkot!” unless you bring a very long telescopic lens and/or some imagination. The latter of which keeps most folk happy.
I looked at the map of Pikey Peak. And the roads … They were everywhere. Slowly but surely making their way up to Lukla. Yes, Pikey Peak is about 2 days south of Lukla. But it was the road network that got me thinking. Pikey Peak is about 4060m. That’s a little over Poon Hill. Pikey Peak has better views and is accessible from Kathmandu. It all adds up to a “new” top tourist attraction in the making. I better get there before the masses do.
The final reason? Well, believe it or not, the actual teahouses around Pikey Peak are still “old school”. As are the trails. It’s that “new”. It was too good an opportunity to pass on.
What route to choose to Pikey Peak?
Next up on the how to plan a Pikey Peak trek agenda was which itinerary to choose from. Hmmmm. Thanks to the roads, there were plenty to choose from. Well, three. Starting in Shivalaya and ending in Salleri (9 days, or 7 if you do longer days). Starting in Dhap and ending Salleri (6 days). And Dhap again but finishing in Dhap (4 days).
Okay, so a 4-day trek to see all the mountains sounded instantly appealing. BUT. And I rarely put “but” in all caps. However, it’s needed here. The 4-day trek is basically 3 days on a road. It also covers the same group. Not for me. But (small caps), it will probably do for quick tours and the like.
So, the option was 9 days with a push for 7, or 6 days with another Dhap style trek. I looked at the map again. The 9-day trek was a big long straight line, some little covered trails, and the good portion of the lower Solukhumbu region. While the 6-day trek was a drive, a loop, and a drive. Hmmm. What swung me? The 9-day trek is basically the “new” Jiri to Everest Base Camp route! What?! Yes, this is the classic Everest route that Hillary and Tenzing did when they first climbed Everest. Only we add a day and take in Pikey Peak. Yep, trekking on the footsteps of history, and a kind of two-for-one trek cover. Great, let’s go.
The Permits for Pikey Peak
What permits? There’s always a catch. As my guide pointed out, we needed the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit (GSCAP) for the Jiri/Shivalaya side. Don’t ask. It’s Nepali bureaucracy. No TIMS needed. Great because TIMS is no longer required for Everest Base Camp either, but the Solukhmbu local permit is. However, we don’t need that for the Pikey Peak trek. Great. So just the GCA permit. Which, we can get there. So need to bother knocking on the doors of TAAN or NTB. Easy.
For those going on the Dhap routes, you don’t need any permits. I shall say no more. But, you won’t get as many mountain views.
How to get to Pikey Peak?
Shared jeep, private jeep, and buses all leave Kathmandu for Jiri and Shivalaya. Daily. And that 7-9 hours is enough for day one of the trek too. I won’t go into details. It’s a Nepali “black top” road. I’ve been on worse, but it was okay. I cheated terribly and took a private jeep. Folks, I know I write guidebooks to Nepal, but I’ve done the 9 / 10 / 16+ hour bus suffering trips for over a decade so everyone else can know what it’s like before choosing. Not one person ever said “wow, that bus trip was horrible, thanks for helping us make up our mind to take a jeep”. So, there’s that. The best I got was a PC complaint that I moaned about a hippie on board.
So, on this occasion. I rocked up to the bus in a jeep with my guide. Got out. Looked inside the bus. Saw no tourists. Watch as the conductor handed out little plastic bags for motion sickness and nodded that I made the right choice. Jumped back in the jeep and opened up a large kebab as we took off on day one of the Pikey Peak trek!
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David, fantastic overview of Pikey Peak! Did you find the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit easy to obtain on the spot, or would you recommend sorting it before arriving in Shivalaya
Thanks for the question, Oliver. Yes, the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit is straightforward to obtain on the spot. However, for peace of mind and smoother planning, I’d recommend trekkers sort it out before arriving in Shivalaya if possible!
Really appreciated your insights on the trek. Curious, was the private jeep significantly more comfortable compared to the bus, and how did it affect your overall trekking experience?
Hi Rachel, the private jeep was a game-changer in terms of comfort and convenience for me on this trek, especially considering the long hours on the road. However, I would take the bus over the shared jeeps as locals overcrowd them. Personally, if it was my first trek in Nepal, I’d take the bus. For this trek, as I wrote, the jeep was the way I went. I wanted the trek to be in my guidebook, and I was also carrying a lot to ensure readers get an honest look at Pikey Peak instead of some generic copy.
Your mention of the ‘old school’ teahouses along Pikey Peak intrigues me, Dave. How does their authenticity compare to more commercial trekking routes?
Felix, the ‘old school’ teahouses genuinely enhance the trekking experience for me, offering a more intimate and authentic glimpse into local life, unlike the more commercialized routes. It’s a refreshing change that adds to the charm of the Pikey Peak trek. Most of it occurs after Shivalaya.
Love the idea of trekking in the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzing. Did you feel the history of the route as you trekked?
Trekking along the route, knowing the historical significance and the past people who had passed the same way, was one of the reasons I chose this route over the easy route on the other side of the trek. Getting in a jeep driving for a day, trekking for two for a view, back in a jeep. Versus, starting where the Everest Expeditions first began, following the route all the way to Lukla adds a profound depth to the journey. And, 100% feels less commercial.
I’m interested by your choice to prioritize the 9-day route. Was the decision based more on the scenery or the historical aspect?
The 9-day route offered not only spectacular scenery but also a rich historical context. I also want to cover the entire route for my guidebook so everyone can get the most out of this trek and make their own choices.
Any tips on dealing with motion sickness for those of us considering the bus?
Bus and jeep ha ha. Front seats help. Staying hydrated, and focusing on the horizon. Personally, I bring my own food on buses in Nepal … jeeps too!