Day Two on the Pikey Peak trek is the same as the Jiri to Lukla Trek!
Jiri is a two hour trek from Shivalaya on a road. It’s not a busy road, but it’s a road. It then turns into a dirt road and finally into a trail. This is the same route Hillary and Tenzing took when they climbed Everest. Long before Lukla airport existed. It’s also the start of our Pikey Peak trek. The real one, not the lame Dhap version – just kidding, well.
I’m again, utterly convinced this route will be better than the Dhap route. I keep telling myself this as I hope for the dirt road to end. Truth be told, Shivalaya is a bustling little village. Think Jomsom or Lukla but without an airport and a little smaller. Stores line the main street. They offer trekking supplies (food) lodging, and a couple of last minute musty trek clothing options.
The best part of the day, for me, is knowing that this is also part of the Jiri to Everest Base Camp trek. It’s not a popular trek anymore as it adds 7 or so days to the 12 day Everest Trek. But, for those looking to avoid the airport and trek to Everest the way it was when it was climbed, then this is the route. Apologies, I’m being nostalgic. But there are no tourists around, and it’s nice.
Shivalaya to Sangba Danda
First things first, pay the man at Shivalaya for the permit. Then scuttle off and relax as you won’t see another permit nor TAAN person nor any other sign of anything other than local work on the trail until you finish. That’s the only moan I will make about the permit fees on this trek. Thankfully there’s no TAAN TIMS hut open. Apparently they’ve been chased off for not doing much.
The trail is immediate and enjoyable. It’s green, it’s forested and no sooner than we started than we were greeted by smiling locals going about their farming day. It’s up and up again before the stone steps hit. By now I am used to Nepali mountain steps. I look at them as natural stair climbers. The ground is dry and they are easy, but steep.
Then it’s down, then up to a sign pointing the way to “Deurali”. There’s one of these on every trail in Nepal. It means “pass”. As in mountain or trail pass. It’s also commonly used to describe a place which may have several different names. So if your trekking guide says you are nearly at Deurali, understand that this could mean anywhere!
Sanga Danda to Deurali
My guide is Raj. A young chap who knows the area well. He’s trekked the classic Jiri to Everest trail on numerous occasions and is excited that I plan to include Pikey Peak into a trekking itinerary. Times have changed and many trekkers like to fly into Lukla now. Many more take dubious helicopter flights back from base camp. It all means, less work for genuine guides and more money for wealthy helicopter companies.
The trail during this section is forested. There’s a valley type scene below and the sun shines through it. Small farming cabins and lodges dot the trail and I wonder how many generations of Nepali here have seen trekkers come through since the dawn of trekking in Nepal. This is part of the historic enjoyment that we are on at the moment.
Then, as if I’ve been lied to on each trek a village appears. It’s naturally called “Deurali”. Raj laughs at my all knowledge talk earlier and keeps pointing out that each lodge is at a place called “Deurali”. We eat lunch and I ask if there’s a Deurali village in Manang too! There is, of course. Whether it’s a village, or pass is another question.
Deurali to Bhandar
More steps. They are harder after a lunch of dal bhat. Then a decent and a forest. Old walls line part of the trail and I wonder if these are to separate farms, land or if they were once part of something else along this route. It’s tranquil, with birds calling out and the sounds of trees rustling. Yesterday there was a buzz of traffic and villages. And just like that, we are in the peace of nature for the afternoon.
A mani wall appears. Raj knows my work on Kathmandu Valley Heritage Walks and wonders how long it will take me to see some interesting markings. Not long. It’s been recently painted. Up ahead are two twin stupas and a monastery. It’s locked up tight and newly rebuilt.
We amble into Bhandar. A surprisingly large village. We’ll be spending the night here. And this is when Raj gets stuck for words. We stay at a quaint lodge with a signpost indicating we are in Tallo Bhandar. The owner points to the south and mentions there’s another village their called Bandar. The further south again where there’s a Bamboo Bandar. To the east is another Bandar.
I asked Raj if he is sure we are in the right “Bhandar” or maybe we should continue on to Bandar, or take a look at the next Bandar. Perhaps even pass by Duerali. There’s laughter, there’s a smokey fire. There’s a good evening as we prepare for the next day when we leave the historic trail and take on the new trail leading to Pikey Peak.
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David, intriguing to hear about the historical route Hillary and Tenzing took. Was this path well-marked, or did you rely heavily on your guide to navigate through these less-traveled paths?”
Hi Tom, the first part of the trek is marked out well in terms of well trodden paths. Actually reaching Pikey Peak is not well marked out with countless trekkers going in circles, or indeed going up the wrong peak! A lot of woeful information online too.
Loved reading about the quaint lodge in Bhandar. Could you tell more about the amenities there? Was it comfortable?
Lodges on this trek are fairly basic along this side. Typical trekking teahouses. Shared bathroom, thin standard mattress. Some rooms had thicker ones. Food was good trekking food. Certianly better than some other lodges on the Everest route!
That’s quite funny about the multiple Deuralis! Does this cause confusion often among trekkers?
Yes, it does. Not just on Pikey Peak, but on other treks too. Though Pikey Peak did seem to have a few more villages or places called Deurali … though some trekkers will put up a hardy arguments that one place really is Deurali and the other isn’t just do it doesn’t look like they are lost …
Always a pleasure reading your trek updates. How does the scenery compare between this trek and others you’ve done in Nepal?
Good question! It’s a historical trek so that is it’s major plus. Views from Pikey Peak itself are good and unique. I’d rank it over Langtang so long as you don’t take the Dhap route. If you take the Dhap route then it’s just another view point.
Sounds like an adventurous trek from Shivalaya to Bhandar! How challenging are the elevation changes on this part of the trek? Planning my trip and this info would help a lot!