Nar Phu Annapurna Circuit – Day 11 of 15:Tilicho Lake and then to Shree Kharka
We were up at 4:30 AM, the cold at Tilicho Base Camp was biting through my layers as we packed light for the climb up to Tilicho Lake. My neighbours could be heard stirring as I packed. I quietly hoped they would stay in bed a little longer. I wanted to reach the lake for the best of the morning light, so an early start was needed. We carried snacks and plenty of water, planning to save the real appetite for a proper meal back at Base Camp. The plan was simple: lake at dawn, back down by mid-morning, then push on toward Shree Kharka in the afternoon, weather permitting.
The climb from Base Camp at 4,150m to Tilicho Lake at 4,950m is an 800-metre gain over a zigzag trail. Toughly two hours of hard ascending followed by another thirty-plus minutes of relatively flat ground approaching the lakes shore. The terrain is the same unstable scree from the day before, but the silence of early morning gives the effort a different meaning. There is nobody else on the trail which is what I wanted. The only sound is boot on stone and our acclimatized lungs working at altitude.
The Sunrise and the Great Barrier
As we climbed, the sun rose over the Annapurna range and caught the Great Barrier – the massive ridge separating the Tilicho basin from the Mustang and Jomsom regions to the west. The light bled down into the valley below in stages, hitting the upper mountain caps first, then the glacier faces, then finally the trail beneath our feet. I have watched a considerable number of Himalayan sunrises over the years. This one is among one of the better ones.
It’s here at times like this I would love the luxury of both a porter and tripod. Over the years I’ve had a mix of both, and wondered why I had both. A tripod works wonders with a DSLR in the mountains when the light is low. But such moments are fleeting and one must weigh up if the effort and costs are worth it. I keep hesitating over the thought that plenty of others have taken star lit mountains. Then comes the cloud. To do it properly the only viable option is to have an open calendar. Go with the purpose of capturing those shots. Yes, in all likelihood some random person with an iPhone will probably capture something without even trying but so goes the way of todays world. In my case, we are on a mission to map the Nar Phu Annapurna Circuit properly for my guidebooks and for other trekkers – so that’s the priority.
The Highest Lake Debate
Upon reaching the lake, one is greeted by a sign declaring Tilicho the highest lake in the world. Here is a piece of advice for anyone planning to talk about this to a Nepali guide or lodge owner: do not mention Ojos del Salado Crater Lake in Chile and Argentina, which sits at approximately 6,390m. Technically it has a stronger claim to the altitude record, but it is generally dismissed in these parts as an unnamed seasonal crater pool rather than a proper lake – which, to be fair, is a reasonable counter-argument given that a crater that fills with meltwater and partially evaporates. Which is a different thing from a permanent glacial lake. Tilicho is widely accepted as the highest named lake in the world, and that is the version of events that keeps the conversation pleasant at altitude. Keep the secret, enjoy the national pride, and look at the blue water.
- Altitude: 4,950m (some GPS readings give 4,919m, but 4,950m is the accepted trekking standard)
- Conditions: Snow at the shore during our visit, but the lake was not fully frozen.
In winter or early spring, expect the entire area to be under snow and ice. A good guide will ask ahead in Manang about current lake conditions before committing to the route. If the weather is poor, continue on the APC as it will be all cloud. If the weather is clear but the lake frozen, then it’s your call – both the turquoise open water and the frozen version are impressive in their own way. Again, this is why I recommend taking a trekking guide if it’s your first trek – all these little things add up to being a great trek vs skimming on by.
Just a heads up. Don’t go swimming in the lake. I know it seems crazy, but some have tried. And one died last year. It’s not a lake for swimming. Aside from the obvious cold, under the water lies everything from flesh shredding rocks, to unstable boulders, and unsurprisingly not a life vest in sight.
The Sound of the Lake
We sat at the shore and ate our packed breakfast while the lake settled into dawn around us. Then came that sound. A deep, thunderous crack from somewhere high above – ice and rock breaking loose from one of the surrounding glaciers and falling. Gautam tensed and looked toward the water, clearly expecting a wave or a splash. Nothing came. It’s a little eerie to hear an avalanche but not see it.
Tilicho looks contained in photographs. In person, the scale of the surrounding glacier walls and mountain faces is far larger than any image implies. The ice fall that produced that crack had happened miles away across the lake. It was all but invisible to the naked eye. The sound travelled perfectly, perhaps boosted by the mountain walls, while the event itself seemed to be happening in a different world entirely. We sat and listened out for more cracks and suspicious noises. It is one of those things that photographs cannot tell you about. And something a good guide will help you discover while sitting silently at dawn.
A group of trekkers appeared just as we were packing up. I’d forgotten how much the instagram world of selfies had taken hold. They queued noisily by the sign alone taking photos of themselves or short videos. Noise filled the air. Not to be a complete downer, but the silence was gone with their chatter. The early morning start was worth it! No avalanche, sounds, for them. We headed away as the sun rose further and the early warm rays caused a low c r a c k to sound. I turned around at selfie trekkers who heard nothing.
The Descent: Kneebreaker in Reverse
The descent back to Base Camp is where my legs began to register the cumulative toll of the early morning on a light meal (yes I know that I just had a packed breakfast). The views are considerable – a bird’s-eye perspective over the landslide zones we crossed yesterday – but the constant downward pressure on loose gravel and scree means concentration at a point when concentration is hardest.
There were more mountain goats on the slopes than the day before, picking their way across the scree above us with irritating ease and sending a regular trickle of pebbles down toward the trail. We gave the exposed sections the same respect we had given them on the ascent: steady pace, poles engaged, no stopping in the open.
We reached Base Camp in time for what I had mentally been calling the victory breakfast since 4:30 AM. In practice this turned out to be an early lunch of dal bhat, which I topped off with fried eggs. At 4,150m after an 800-metre climb and descent, dal bhat earns its status as the greatest trekking meal in Nepal without any argument from me.
Pushing On: The Options from Base Camp
Here we come to another decision point on the Nar Phu Annapurna Circuit, and it is worth thinking through before rather than after.
If the climb and descent to Tilicho was too draining, staying at Base Camp for the night is a perfectly sound choice. The next option down is Shree Kharka at 4,050m, which sits before Khangsar on the return route. Khangsar itself is another valid stop if one wanted to descend a little further. Both give more options the following morning.
The important acclimatization note here is that Base Camp sits at 4,150m and the next destination on the main circuit – Leddar, also written as Letdar, with Yak Kharka just above it and treated as essentially the same place these days – sits at around 4,200m. The altitude difference is negligible, but the distance is not. Going from Tilicho Lake all the way to Leddar or Yak Kharka in a single day is possible. It will also be one of the longest and hardest days on the entire route, and the day after is the push to High Camp before the Thorong La. I, personally, don’t like it. Trekking is to be enjoyed, not suffered!
Since we came off eight days in Nar Phu already acclimatized, we pushed on after lunch to Shree Kharka at 4,050m. It retraced the scree and landslide section in reverse, which is a different experience psychologically. Going up, you are focused on what is above you. Coming down, you are focused on what is below. Here, it’s both ends. The mountain goats were more active in the afternoon, and the loose sections felt looser. We moved carefully and arrived at Shree Kharka in the afternoon with enough daylight left to enjoy the sunshine.
This is why the 15-day Nar Phu Annapurna Circuit works as a great trekking experience. It’s old school in many regards. It is not for those who want a race. It is not designed to test how much punishment trekkers can absorb in a day. It is designed to give the mountains the time they deserve to be enjoyed. Technically, there’s a day in reserve on the Nar Phu section if culture is not your thing … then again there’s the side treks. It all depend on what you want from the trek and where you want to spend it. Moreover, there’s a road being built (again) that’s meant to link Manang with Tilicho Base Camp. So get here before the jeep tours spoil it all (again). Tilicho Lake is one of the most significant days on any trek in Nepal. I know it’s possible to speed things up with a trek up to Yak Kharka or Leddar today, but the day after that is a toughy. I also have to think about my trekking book – not everyone is a trail runner. I think it’s fair to say that most people want to enjoy the mountains.
So again, why the road?
Because the locals need access to schools and supermarkets? What locals? It’s a base camp! It’s there to be a base camp, not a settlement. I’d say it’s more so big profit tour companies can run jeep tours from Pokhar is the more likely explanation.
For full logistics on the Tilicho section and the complete Road Free Nar Phu Annapurna Circuit itinerary, also see my Trekking in Nepal guidebook.
Next: Day 12 – Shree Kharka to Yak Kharka (Leddar): The last easy day before the High Camp and Thorong La Pass.
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