Kirtipur: a great half-day or quick trip from Kathmandu

Kirtipur is a great heritage site to visit & very close to Kathmandu

Many people looking for things to do around Kathmandu overlook the former “capital” of Kirtipur. It’s only 25 minutes on a local bus from Thamel and is filled with history and culture, away from all that traffic!

While most people head for full day trips or half-day trips out to Patan and Bhaktapur, I’m adding Panauti into this list too because it really is a great cultural city worth visiting. Shorter trips to Boudhanath and Swayambunath are also mainstays. This is my introduction for a quick visit to Kritipur.

For full details, maps, entrance fees, and restaurant recommendations, use my complete guide:

• Full guide to Kirtipur – entrance fees, opening times, and detailed maps or see my guidebooks below.

Why you should consider visiting Kirtipur

It’s off the beaten path yet just a stone’s throw away from the hubbub of Kathmandu. I’ve visited Kirtipur on many occasions and have rarely seen more than a handful of tourists there. Why? Simple. It’s not on the tour operators’ hotlist. There’s no money to be made bringing tourists here as there is only one hotel, a few restaurants and no entrance fee.

All this sounds good to me!

Kirtipur’s history might answer a few questions

Kirtipur’s history dates back to 1099 AD when it was part of Patan. When the Gorkha King Prithvi Narayan Shah invaded the valley in the 18th century, Kirtipur managed to break away.

However, in 1767 Kirtipur was brought back into the kingdom following 23 attempts to conquer it by the King. On the 23rd attempt, one of Kirtipur’s noblemen defected and the king was able to launch a final assault on the beleaguered town. These battles became known as the “Battle of Kirtipur”.

Kirtipur has always been a bit of a rebel …

– quote from my Nepal Guidebook

Soon after, the Malla kingdoms of Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu fell and under the new Shah era the country united into what is now known as Nepal.

These days there’s an air of isolation about the place. Some say that it still views itself as a rebellious old Malla kingdom so it’s often the last to get funding. Others say it’s still living in the past.

Visiting Kirtipur today

No matter one’s view on Kirtipur’s past, its streets are well kept, there’s a new big tourist office, no entrance fees for tourists anywhere. There was a few years ago, and I suspect they’ll reintroduce it again. In either case, Kirtipur is a great way to experience a little bit of old Nepal right on the doorstep of the capital.

A quick bus from Ratna bus area will bring you to Naya Bazaar at the base of the steps (a good place to eat, get a local haircut and visit a Thai monastery) leading up to the old city. A taxi is also quite cheap.

At the top of the steps (I didn’t count but it’s about a 7 minute walk), you enter through one of Kirtipur’s old gates. From here the old city starts. Traffic free, entrance fee free, all you need to do is start walking to enjoy the unique temples and stupas in the city. Not to mention the classic old Newari streets and people themselves.

Kirtipur’s must see highlights

There are too many things to list without dragging on (they’re all listed in my Nepal Guidebook) but here are the main things to see in Kirtipur.

Chilancho Stupa

Think Boudhanath but smaller and seriously more neglected. Built in 1515 by Emperor Ashoka, today the harmika (top) and the white stupa are badly in need of some white paint. Perhaps this is what makes it so interesting?

Tri Ratna Temple

This old stone Krishna-like temple is worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists alike. It encompasses Buddha, Dharma and Sangha. The temple took some mild damage in the 2015 earthquake and was used by many aid organizations as a landmark. To the right down a street are two large golden Buddha statues well worth visiting too.

Dev Pukku

This old royal area is one of the most charming in Kathmandu. The pond here is where Kirtipur’s main water source is fed by underground water. To the tank’s left is the very well-preserved former Royal Palace. It’s all local accommodation now, and it’s great on a summer’s day to see people sitting at the old Newari style windows looking out.

Bagh Bhairab Temple

The whole complex is one of my favorites in all of Kathmandu. The main courtyard is filled with shrines and temples. It’s worth having a look at a few as they are extremely unique.

The temple itself is huge, though Saturday mornings might best be avoided due to the odd animal sacrifice. The views from behind the temple are also some of the best in Kathmandu city.

I also managed to solve a little riddle there that certain other guidebooks couldn’t! In the southeast corner is a Dhartimata statue giving birth. Here’s a full explanation on the Dhartimata statue.

Uma Maheshwar Temple

This tall temple is guarded by two elephants wearing saddles made of metal spikes (to keep people off). Originally built in 1663 with four roofs, one was destroyed in the 1934 earthquake. It survived the 2015 earthquake without much of a scratch. There’s also a British bell here from Croydon!

A heritage site worth visiting

If you’ve only got time to visit Kathmandu and little else, then put Kirtipur on your list! It’s only 25 minutes away by bus or even faster by taxi. You can cover all the sights there in well under a half-day trip. It’s away from the crowds. There’s no entrance fee. It’s a classic Newari heritage site. And you get to go somewhere very few people know about!

Looking for more? Here’s my free online guide to Kirtipur with maps, entrance fees, and detailed temple descriptions. For even more information with maps, restaurants, accommodation and hidden facts, check out my books below.

Go deeper into Kathmandu’s heritage

Most guidebooks are years out of date or filled with paid placements. My books provide a complete strategy for Nepal with 100% independent reviews. Get the exact costs for every meal and bed, plus the world’s only vetted, scam-free agency list.

Kathmandu Valley Heritage Walks

The complete guide to walking the heritage sites of the Kathmandu Valley. Detailed routes, maps and independent reviews for every major site.

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Nepal Guidebook

The complete “how-to” for the entire country. From Kathmandu’s hidden streets to finding the right jungle safari or top treks without the crowds.

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